Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz
Page Views: 899 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Thin, sharp crimps typify the meaty business of this line ending in some fun arête slapping to the anchors.

Start up the corner/crack just right of Tiny Propeller. The corner/crack is Hard Yakka, a 5.9 wide crack route. Clip a few bolts out right. At the third bolt commit to the face and move out right towards the blunt arête and a couple more clips. A creaky but great flake (go easy on this) just below the fifth bolt offers a good shake before the bulge.

Crimp hard through thin, sharp crimps passing bolts five and six to another good but potentially breakable jug rest on the arête (again, go easy on it.) Move back left into the shallow corner and the crux of the route on poor crimps to a killer two-finger pocket on the face and up to a jug horn.

Weave back to the right to the airy arête-slapping finish.

This will likely feel harder the shorter you are.

Location Suggest change

Just right of the corner right of Tiny Propeller.

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts to anchor. Bolts 5, 6 and 7 are slightly reachy clips (I bolted this without any TR rehearsal and my bolt-location estimates ended up a bit high.) Probably best to hang these draws while lowering from Tiny Propeller or Tupelo Chain Sex. Or get your tallest friend to go first.

Take a Slice Suggest change

Smells good up here
Yeah, it's the candle, yo it's uh
yo it's uh sausage.
Sausage candle
Most people don't do it the way I do it, very personal
So, like, even the money, twenties, tens, twenties y'know, like whatever
I just like sausage