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Routes in Leaning Tower

Blinded by the Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Craggy Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Attack Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mainliner S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Original Route (aka Mean Leaner) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sausage Candles S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Thought S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tiny Propeller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tupelo Chain Sex S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Will of the Wasp S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz
Page Views: 160 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description [Edit]

Thin, sharp crimps typify the meaty business of this line ending in some fun arête slapping to the anchors.

Start up the corner/crack just right of Tiny Propeller. This corner/crack is Hard Yakka, a 5.9 wide crack route. Clip a few bolts out right. At the third bolt commit to the face and move out right towards the blunt arête and a couple more clips. A creaky but great flake (go easy on this) just below the fifth bolt offers a good shake before the bulge.

Crimp hard through thin, sharp crimps passing bolts five and six to another good but potentially breakable jug rest on the arête (again, go easy on it.) Move back left into the shallow corner and the crux of the route on poor crimps to a killer two-finger pocket on the face and up to a jug horn.

Weave back to the right to the airy arête-slapping finish.

This will likely feel harder the shorter you are.

Location [Edit]

Just right of the corner right of Tiny Propeller.

Protection [Edit]

9 bolts to anchor. Bolts 5, 6 and 7 are reachy clips (I bolted this without any TR rehearsal and my bolt-location estimates ended up a bit high.) Probably best to hang these draws while lowering from Tiny Propeller or Tupelo Chain Sex. Or get your tallest friend to go first.

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