Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Cam Burns and Paul Fehlau, 1990
Page Views: 925 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Feb 7, 2015
Admins: Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

Typically avoided because of the super funky chain-links-used-as-bolt-hangers setup and a lack of a real anchor, the route is surprisingly fun.
Pull onto the rock and make tricky moves to the second clip. Sneaky moves get you up to the third bolt before another slabby crux past the fifth bolt. Pretty sweet holes and huecos lead to the seventh bolt and one more tricky bulge move before clipping two new (February 2015) bolts to the anchor at the top of the formation.

For a couple decades a carabiner on the last (seventh) bolt served as the anchor with a single carabiner on it. Cam says they topped it out and didn't install an anchor, thus the current single bolt anchor setup. In February 2015 Jason added two bolts and an anchor to extend the climb and make for a safer lowering experience.

Location

On the small buttress just east of the Leaning Tower proper. It's left of the Easy Bake Alcove proper. Chain-link hangers make the route easy to spot.

Protection

Nine bolts. The first seven bolts are equipped with chain links for hangers.

Photos