Tupelo Chain Sex
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Leaning Tower
|Blinded by the Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Craggy Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lichen Attack Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Mainliner S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Original Route (aka Mean Leaner) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Sausage Candles S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Second Thought S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Tiny Propeller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Tupelo Chain Sex S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Unknown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Will of the Wasp S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 75 ft|
|FA:||Cam Burns and Paul Fehlau, 1990|
|Page Views:||390 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Halladay on Feb 7, 2015|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionTypically avoided because of the super funky chain-links-used-as-bolt-hangers setup and a lack of a real anchor, the route is surprisingly fun.
Pull onto the rock and make tricky moves to the second clip. Sneaky moves get you up to the third bolt before another slabby crux past the fifth bolt. Pretty sweet holes and huecos lead to the seventh bolt and one more tricky bulge move before clipping two new (February 2015) bolts to the anchor at the top of the formation.
For a couple decades a carabiner on the last (seventh) bolt served as the anchor with a single carabiner on it. Cam says they topped it out and didn't install an anchor, thus the current single bolt anchor setup. In February 2015 Jason added two bolts and an anchor to extend the climb and make for a safer lowering experience.