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Routes in Love Shack Area

Agent Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain America S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death Grip S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Duck and Cover S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Death Coyote S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Happy Entrails S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
In Your Face Space Coyote S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Love Handles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Other Woman, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Second Hand Emotion S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wading Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Description

Short, steep wall in a bend in the river about 5 minutes' walk in past the Gateway area (on the trail toward The Sponge). Find it by NOT crossing the first, long wooden-plank bridge across the river, but walking straight for about 50 feet instead, and looking up on your left. The river runs up against the base of the routes as it turns hard right, the climbs take you right over the water. Bolted for stick-clipping first bolt, which you definitely want to do. A fall before clipping would drop you right into shallow, rocky water, and could result in serious injury. I'd also recommend bringing a tarp, 2-3 clamps, and an extra stick clip (or another long, straight pole to span the river), as you'll have to rig a method of keeping your rope out of the water when you pull it between burns. "Is it worth all that trouble?," you may ask. In my opinion, the answer is definitely YES, and then some. If you climb at the mid-5.12 level and like short, bouldery routes, these are some of the best in NM. Also, the natural surroundings are phenomenally beautiful.

Added bonus: The middle two 5.12 routes, Happy Entrails and Death Grip , can be climbed in fairly heavy rain as they are steep enough to stay dry. However, the river becomes a bit more of an issue, as it tends to swell when it rains hard.

For many years there were only 2 bolted routes: Happy Entrails and Death Grip. Consensus is that the latter is harder by about a letter grade. However, more recent development has added three 5.9s, a couple 5.10s and two 5.12 routes.

Getting There

See above. 5 min approach along the main riverside trail (the one you take if you're heading to the sponge).

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Classic Climbing Routes at Love Shack Area

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