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Routes in Love Shack Area

Agent Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain America S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death Grip S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Duck and Cover S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Death Coyote S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Happy Entrails S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
In Your Face Space Coyote S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Love Handles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Other Woman, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Second Hand Emotion S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wading Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jeffrey Hyman and Jason Halladay
Page Views: 1,073 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jeffrey Hyman on Sep 4, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: June 1, 2018 - The entire Santa Fe National Forest closed to access due Stage III Fire Restrictions Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This route is a nice little addition to the crag to create a trifecta of pretty fun 5.12s. The upper section looks beautiful from the trail, but the bottom appears a bit thuggish at first glance. However, a little trickery (or burl it out), to a good rest, and you'll be giggling all the way to the chains. Stay strong and go direct at the top through the amazing huecos.

The route name comes from a classic Simpsons episode wherein Homer eats chile peppers from Guatemala, starts tripping balls, and then Johnny Cash shows up in space coyote form as Homer's spirit guide.

Space Coyote!

Location [Suggest Change]

Right of Death Grip, Starts on the right side of the hole across the stream.

Protection [Suggest Change]

8 bolts

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12b
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12b
This one should clean up to be a sought after classic! Only thing that keeps it from being 4 stars is the lack of consistency and a few seeping holds at the bottom (at least with my non-optimized beta).

Edit: Glad to hear that the holds at the start dry out. That handlebar hold towards the top is pretty cool, but it was too thin for me to trust! Sep 5, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12b
Good news, the seeping holds at the start were temporary, just lasting a couple weeks after the heavy rains in August. It's all dry at the start now.
The wrap-around handlebar hold at the second-to-last bolt is one of the cooler holds in the Jemez. Sep 6, 2014
djkyote  
The jug after the gaston is in the river now after almost impaling the belayer. The rest of that undercling band is looking suspect too. Probably harder now. Great name btw, love that episode! Sep 8, 2014
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12+
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12+
We found the climbing up to and just past the first bolt hard for the (12b) grade [feel free to use the "suggested grade" function... I know]. Maybe we missed something, but never having climbed it before today, I'm going with the theory that the broken hold mentioned above increased the grade? Jason, Jeffrey, have you gotten back on it?

Stick-clipped boulder problem (fun, hard V5?) to cool-featured, fun, but obviously fairly untrafficked 5.10. Belayers should beware of and expect to be dragged into the stream from falls prior to the 1st bolt.

Can't believe that Simpsons episode was 20 years ago. Jul 15, 2017
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12b
George Perkins wrote:We found the climbing up to and just past the first bolt hard for the (12b) grade [feel free to use the "suggested grade" function... I know]. Maybe we missed something, but never having climbed it before today, I'm going with the theory that the broken hold mentioned above increased the grade? Jason, Jeffrey, have you gotten back on it? Stick-clipped boulder problem (fun, hard V5?) to cool-featured, fun, but obviously fairly untrafficked 5.10. Belayers should beware of and expect to be dragged into the stream from falls prior to the 1st bolt.
Man, I wish the start wasn't so much harder than the rest of the climbing because the climbing above the first bolt is really fun. I have been back on it since the bigger plate hold broke in Sept. 2014 (nearly three years ago now, wow!) I didn't find it much harder, still about a V5 boulder problem. It took me a long time initially to figure out and do the boulder problem. I eventually found a fantastic left heel/toe cam that made all the difference.

The belaying situation kinda sucks now. There used to be a small island of dirt and a log there that helped immensely. You can see it in this photo. Now it's probably best do do this in winter when there's ice over the stream. To work out the beta when we first established this, I would stick clip the second bolt then clip the leaders end through the first bolt. This helped keep the rope out of the way and keep the belayer on the little island that used to exist. Jul 17, 2017
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12+
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12+
Thanks Jason. Sounds like I just need to find better beta at the start.

I'll surely be back, in addition to having really unique features, this climb sets up another great kids' rope swing (as good as Pegasus, those at the Dungeon, and Rad Wall). Jul 17, 2017

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