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Routes in Love Shack Area

Agent Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain America S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death Grip S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Duck and Cover S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Death Coyote S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Happy Entrails S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
In Your Face Space Coyote S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Love Handles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Other Woman, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Second Hand Emotion S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wading Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Noah Monagle & Karl Kiser, Spring 2014
Page Views: 702 total · 13/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on May 11, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

The crux is around the first bolt (better to stick clip). Climb up and left then traverse a bit right to the second bolt and continue upwards.

Location

The route is about ten feet right of Love Handles. Rap the route.

Protection

Bolts to anchor and chains.

Photos

There are two bolts at the fifth clip. The lower bolt (partially chopped) wouldn't tighten and needs to be removed. I plan to remove but one of the locals can feel free to remove if they like. May 12, 2014
The "nails" are 3 3/4" rawl five piece bolts. They fit tight and need to be hit a bit when the drill bit gets dull. Sep 10, 2014
David MacKenzie
Albuquerque
David MacKenzie   Albuquerque
In order to clean, I strongly recommend re-tying through the bottom links of the chain and then lowering instead of rappelling. You'll want to tram to clean the draws, remembering to un-tram before clearing the last draw. Sep 26, 2014

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