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Routes in Love Shack Area

Agent Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain America S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death Grip S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Duck and Cover S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Death Coyote S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Happy Entrails S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
In Your Face Space Coyote S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Love Handles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Other Woman, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Second Hand Emotion S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wading Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Karl Kiser, Noah Monagle & Zack Kane, Summer 2012
Page Views: 1,329 total, 20/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Jun 28, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

There is a low crux and a higher crux. The jugs are too much fun. It is better to clip a long sling to the second bolt. Additionally, it is useful for the belayer to have Tevas (standing in the stream is a better belay for the bottom bolts).

Location

Look for the light and dark streaks a little right of the hard routes where the stream is narrow. One can step from a rock to a good shelf where the climb begins.

Protection

Bolts to anchor and chains. Rap the route but give the rope a good jerk to keep it out of the water.

Photos

David Cole
  5.9+
David Cole  
  5.9+
Crux is to the second bolt. I went left, but to the right is also a good option.
Be careful of a ground fall here.
Super fun climbing above 2nd bolt with so many great flakes and variations.
Wish it was longer. Jun 15, 2014
Philip Schneberger  
  5.9
Route gets better everytime i'm on it. Seems that there is two ways of going about it after the second bolt. Either stay on the light colored rock which is 9+ or head onto the black rock which is 9/9- in my opinion. Great route, thanks for setting it up! Sep 16, 2012
Karl Kiser  
 
Thanks Jason, we did not have the exact lengths of chain. Enjoy the shady side. Jun 30, 2012
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9
Fun route and cool holds that will certainly get better as it cleans up. I added lowering biners to the chains. Hope that's cool, Karl. Jun 29, 2012