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The Grotto Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in The Grotto

Gilligan's Island (a.k.a. The Alcove) 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Grotto Left (East Side) Lower Tier 2 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Grotto Left (East Side) Upper Tier 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Grotto Right (West Side) 5 / 21 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25

Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors ) 4 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21

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Elevation:	6,009 ft	1,832 m
GPS:	35.8054, -106.14318 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	112,321 total · 461/month
Shared By:	Anthony Stout on Mar 6, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo Details

The BLM Taos Field Office implemented a Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for routes within its management area. The Diablo walls included in this plan are The Shack, Winter Wall, Sun Devil Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx. The final document can be found online: shorturl.at/FYn4f

Description

The Grotto is the premium area to climb in Diablo Canyon. It is a slot canyon trimmed out of the upper portion of the south wall. It is filled with large boulders interlaced with fairly lush (for NM) vegetation. While it runs NE to SW the north facing wall is much higher, keeping The Grotto shady for most of the day. The sun peeks through both ends of the canyon during the early morning and late afternoon respectively. However, during January, February, and March an unseasonably warm day is necessary for comfortable climbing.

Climbs in The Grotto range from 5.8 to 5.14a. The rock ranges from good to great with everything from long and steep to short and slabby. Lots of flat boulders provide spots to lounge, lunch, or both while keeping an eye on fellow climbers.

(Text written by Rick Bradshaw)

Getting There

Follow the new trail (fall 2012) to Runway (Lower Tier). From Runway (Lower Tier), hike easy terrain west to the Grotto. The new trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall.

Alternatively, you can take the old, long-used but steeper, nastier, approach to the Grotto. For this, stay in the main arroyo past Winter Wall and past the Solar Cave and look for a decent trail in the dirt embankment on the left. Take this trail and wind your way up through talus and screen to the top.

79 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Grotto

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 19 ● Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight… Trad Top of the Grotto (Oj…
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 52 ● Evil Paradise Sport Top of the Grotto (Oj…
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 15 ● Guillotine Crack Trad 2 pitches Grotto Left (E Side)…
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 27 ● El Areto Bolto Del Diablo Sport Top of the Grotto (Oj…
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 98 ● Affirmative Action Sport Grotto Left (E Side)…
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 70 ● Bedeviled Sport Grotto Left (E Side)…
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 41 ● Where the Wild Things Aren't Sport Grotto Right (W Side)
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 27 ● Better Late than Never Sport Grotto Left (E Side)…
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 58 ● Bush in a Blender Sport Grotto Left (E Side)…
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 13 ● Crystal Clear Arête Sport Grotto Right (W Side)
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 38 ● The Book of Souls Sport Grotto Left (E Side)…
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 18 ● Muscle Crow Sport Grotto Left (E Side)…
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 13 ● Where the World Ends Trad, Sport Grotto Right (W Side)
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 18 ● Lucifer's Hammer Drill Sport Top of the Grotto (Oj…
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 14 ● Sin after Sin Sport Grotto Right (W Side)