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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)

666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Class Act S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Clear ArĂȘte (a.k.a. UNA) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dopesmoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tenable S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where the World Ends T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Fred Berman, Gabe Lewis-Kraitsik, Stephanie Alessandrone
Page Views: 783 total · 13/month
Shared By: Grindrite on Nov 18, 2013
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climb the first 40 feet of Bong Crack, clip a bolt on the right side of the diehedral, grab the rail and swing your feet out to the arete. Climb past 6 more bolts to the anchor.
Perfect rock, stellar position and fun arete climbing combine to make this a 4 star route.

Protection

.2 to #1 camalots for bong crack, 7 quickdraws for the arete.

Photos

DaveT
Albuquerque
  5.12c
DaveT   Albuquerque
  5.12c
Cool route! The crux area stumped me for a bit but it ended up climbing really well once I got it dialed. Still a tough crux move.

If you don't have a rack on hand for the Bong Crack start, you can climb Class Act for a handful of bolts (use some runners) and find the logical traverse to the first bolt of WWE. There's a small runout for the traverse but it's pretty easy climbing. I'd do it this way again rather than lug cams up there. May 4, 2015

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