Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne 2009
Page Views: 3,089 total · 18/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Mar 21, 2010
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


21 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This awesome route is likely one of the best 5.10s at Diablo, on par with the Winter Wall classic Grape Ape and the best of the Early Wall, Grotto, etc.

Anchor your belayer to the two bolts on the right side of the gully.

Clip the first two bolts on easy terrain before traversing left towards the arete. The route really gets going around bolt five, with tricky moves and a bizarre mantle to get established on the arete. From here, get psyched for 50 feet of continuous, technical face climbing on small edges and pockets, using the left arete on occasion. It isn't over until you clip the anchors.

Location Suggest change

The obvious arete and face about 20 feet right of Lucifer's Hammer Drill. It shares the first two bolts with Drama Queen (10d, another new Vaino route) before heading left.

Head up the gully and belay your leader from the two-bolt anchor on the gully's right side.

Protection Suggest change

Tightly bolted: 14 bolts to chains. It is easy to back-clean a few of the bolts.

Be careful with the ends of the rope if you are climbing with a 60m (a 50m definitely won't work, and a 70m is more convenient).

Photos

loading