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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)

666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Class Act S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Clear ArĂȘte (a.k.a. UNA) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dopesmoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tenable S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where the World Ends T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ed Strang, Fred Berman
Page Views: 842 total, 22/month
Shared By: Grindrite on Oct 11, 2014
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Cli[p the first 2 bolts of the unnamed arete and continue up slightly overhanging crimps. Pull through the technical crux to gain the upper prow. Perfect rock sustained climbing and great position combine for another 4 star route in the Grotto.

Location

This route starts the unnamed arete just left of Tweak Fuck.

Protection

This route has a total of 8 bolts and a fixed anchor.

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Fun route and a nice mix of technical and powerful climbing. I ended up hanging a 4' draw from the last bolt so I could clip before the crux. I couldn't clip the last bolt directly until I was above it on jugs and much easier climbing. Apr 13, 2015
Grindrite  
 
No longer a project. Ed Strang onsighted it. Sin after Sin 13a. Oct 13, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Not unethical at all when you put the effort into establishing the line. I hope your elbow continues to feel better so you can get back on the route. May 3, 2014
Grindrite  
 
Currently there is a project left of Tweak, it's bolted and has a red tag. I was hoping to send it this spring but was set back with an elbow injury. My hope is to get it done this coming fall. if someone feels this is unethical please contact me before you send it. If nothing else I would like to get some photos of the first ascent. May 2, 2014