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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)

666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Class Act S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Clear ArĂȘte (a.k.a. UNA) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dopesmoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tenable S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where the World Ends T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Ken Sims, 1979
Page Views: 919 total, 8/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Mar 15, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Bong Crack is a high quality crack route at Diablo.

Fire it up the kind hand and finger cracks in a left-facing corner for the lower 3/4 of the climb. This section takes good pro, and is quite clean, with just enough good rest stances to keep the grade at 5.9. When you reach the level of the Class Act anchors, you can traverse left to bail out of 5.10c wide crack finish. But if you're up for it- keep climbing up the crack and do the full route.

The final 10' to the anchor, the crack is wider. Modern climbers will forsake the bong in favor of #3 and #4 camalots, as you squirm, stem, and thrash your way to the chains.

D. Jackson's "Rock Climbing New Mexico" says the FA was Ken Sims in 1979. D. Newell said he and Jacques installed the original piton anchors in the early 1990s, believing it to be a FA. I'm pretty sure they called it "Surficial Scratch" at the time. Karl Kiser and friends(?) later added the bolted anchor. A few years ago, I pulled a large angle pin out from above the bolted anchor with my fingers, it was stamped "SJS".

Location

This climb is the obvious crack on the right side of the Grotto Entrance. It is between Class Act and Woogie's Wild Ride.
Bong crack is #17 in Bradshaws excellent online guide

This shows the climb pretty well.

Protection

Nuts and cams up to a #3 camalot (#4's can be placed too).
A 2-bolt anchor with rap-hangers is at the top.

Photos

Souljah
Northern NM
  5.10b/c
Souljah   Northern NM
  5.10b/c
Nice crack. Look for a good "out-facing" knee-bar rest at the base of wide section , where "cuppy" hands take you to the top in relatively clean style. Jan 26, 2010
This crack was done a long time ago. We called it the Bong Crack because there was a large angle at the top prior to the placing of the higher bolt anchor. Apr 1, 2008
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
 
I have only done this to the anchors for Class Act. It was great and I one day aspire to, how did you put it, "chimney and grovel" my way to the top. The pro is great if you have cams, and you can pretty much stuff one in every few inches if you want....

If you want a pretty cool single pitch 5.9 trad route at diablo this one fits the bill if you bail out at the first anchors. Mar 17, 2008