Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Ken Sims, 1979
Page Views: 1,167 total · 9/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Mar 15, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Bong Crack is a high quality crack route at Diablo.

Fire it up the kind hand and finger cracks in a left-facing corner for the lower 3/4 of the climb. This section takes good pro, and is quite clean, with just enough good rest stances to keep the grade at 5.9. When you reach the level of the Class Act anchors, you can traverse left to bail out of 5.10c wide crack finish. But if you're up for it- keep climbing up the crack and do the full route.

The final 10' to the anchor, the crack is wider. Modern climbers will forsake the bong in favor of #3 and #4 camalots, as you squirm, stem, and thrash your way to the chains.

D. Jackson's "Rock Climbing New Mexico" says the FA was Ken Sims in 1979. D. Newell said he and Jacques installed the original piton anchors in the early 1990s, believing it to be a FA. I'm pretty sure they called it "Surficial Scratch" at the time. Karl Kiser and friends(?) later added the bolted anchor. A few years ago, I pulled a large angle pin out from above the bolted anchor with my fingers, it was stamped "SJS".

Location

This climb is the obvious crack on the right side of the Grotto Entrance. It is between Class Act and Woogie's Wild Ride.
Bong crack is #17 in Bradshaws excellent online guide

Protection

Nuts and cams up to a #3 camalot (#4's can be placed too).
A 2-bolt anchor with rap-hangers is at the top.

Photos

Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
 
I have only done this to the anchors for Class Act. It was great and I one day aspire to, how did you put it, "chimney and grovel" my way to the top. The pro is great if you have cams, and you can pretty much stuff one in every few inches if you want....

If you want a pretty cool single pitch 5.9 trad route at diablo this one fits the bill if you bail out at the first anchors. Mar 17, 2008
This crack was done a long time ago. We called it the Bong Crack because there was a large angle at the top prior to the placing of the higher bolt anchor. Apr 1, 2008
Souljah
Northern NM
  5.10b/c
Souljah   Northern NM
  5.10b/c
Nice crack. Look for a good "out-facing" knee-bar rest at the base of wide section , where "cuppy" hands take you to the top in relatively clean style. Jan 26, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
So much fun! Wish I had an elbow pad for the crux at the top. That or more confident fist jamming and hand stacking technique for the steepness! Apr 16, 2019