All Locations > New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > The Grotto (a.k.a… > Grotto Right (West Side)
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch)
Avg: 2.9 from 11 votes
Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)
|666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Class Act S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a. UNA) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Dopesmoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Tenable S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Where the World Ends T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|FA:||Ken Sims, 1979|
|Page Views:||919 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Mar 15, 2008|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionBong Crack is a high quality crack route at Diablo.
Fire it up the kind hand and finger cracks in a left-facing corner for the lower 3/4 of the climb. This section takes good pro, and is quite clean, with just enough good rest stances to keep the grade at 5.9. When you reach the level of the Class Act anchors, you can traverse left to bail out of 5.10c wide crack finish. But if you're up for it- keep climbing up the crack and do the full route.
The final 10' to the anchor, the crack is wider. Modern climbers will forsake the bong in favor of #3 and #4 camalots, as you squirm, stem, and thrash your way to the chains.
D. Jackson's "Rock Climbing New Mexico" says the FA was Ken Sims in 1979. D. Newell said he and Jacques installed the original piton anchors in the early 1990s, believing it to be a FA. I'm pretty sure they called it "Surficial Scratch" at the time. Karl Kiser and friends(?) later added the bolted anchor. A few years ago, I pulled a large angle pin out from above the bolted anchor with my fingers, it was stamped "SJS".
LocationThis climb is the obvious crack on the right side of the Grotto Entrance. It is between Class Act and Woogie's Wild Ride.
Bong crack is #17 in Bradshaws excellent online guide
This shows the climb pretty well.