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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)
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666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Box of Chocolates S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Class Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crack Wars T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crystal Clear Arête S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dopesmoker S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Leper Messiah S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tenable S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Where the World Ends T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 35.80532, -106.14347 |
| FA: | Rick Bradshaw, Gary Sutherland, and Rob Cobb, 2000 |
| Page Views: | 1,313 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo
Details
Description
Someone forgot to tell the FA that these sorts of routes belong in the Solar Cave. If it were in the cave it would receive 4 stars and non-stop traffic, but in its current location it sits more or less ignored, probably due to its relatively chossy appearance.
Begin with surprisingly difficult moves after stick-clipping the first bolt. Above the bolt good crimps lead up the slab to a traverse right into the large dihedral.
Reach left and clip a bolt from a decent stance below the roof, then traverse left, past the rickety rock, which is not a mandatory hold, but probably makes things a bit easier. Traverse back right again to a weird horizontal crack/sloper hold that you're not really sure how to use. Is it a finger lock, is it an undercling, is it a sloper? Do the best you can with this thing then find some great, signature Diablo slopers, and a hidden jug out left. Work your feet over the lip and clip the anchor.
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