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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)

666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Class Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Clear ArĂȘte (a.k.a. UNA) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dopesmoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tenable S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trailer Park Girls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where the World Ends T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne 2009
Page Views: 115 total · 1/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Mar 26, 2010
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Another fun new climb in the Upper Grotto. Thanks Vaino and Jen!

The first half of the climb consists of (mostly) 5.8 climbing on a super positive, low angle arete, ending on a ledge.

At this point, things get interesting. Make a few tricky moves to get established on the arete. Thin, technical arete climbing (crux) guards the ninth clip, but it is easy to go for it as you are never high above the last bolt. From here, a few casual moves lead to the anchor.

Location

"Untenable" is on the same formation as "Where the Wild Things Aren't", "Tweak Fuck" etc:

On the upper right side of the Grotto, walk past "Tweak Fuck" and its neighboring "Unnamed Arete" climb. Scramble around the corner on blocks, and look to your right to find "Untenable".

Protection

10 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rap rings.

Tightly bolted: you can backclean a few bolts, but you probably don't want to try it in the middle of the crux.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
 
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
 
This climb gets late afternoon sun, at least in Spring. Mar 26, 2010

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