Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne 2009
Page Views: 350 total · 3/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Mar 26, 2010
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Another fun new climb in the Upper Grotto. Thanks Vaino and Jen!

The first half of the climb consists of (mostly) 5.8 climbing on a super positive, low angle arete, ending on a ledge.

At this point, things get interesting. Make a few tricky moves to get established on the arete. Thin, technical arete climbing (crux) guards the ninth clip, but it is easy to go for it as you are never high above the last bolt. From here, a few casual moves lead to the anchor.


"Untenable" is on the same formation as "Where the Wild Things Aren't", "Tweak Fuck" etc:

On the upper right side of the Grotto, walk past Tweak Fuck and its neighboring Crystal Clear ArĂȘte (a.k.a. UNA) climb. Scramble around the corner on blocks, and look to your right to find "Untenable". It is the route left of Dopesmoker.


10 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rap rings.

Tightly bolted: you can backclean a few bolts, but you probably don't want to try it in the middle of the crux.