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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)

666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Class Act S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Clear ArĂȘte (a.k.a. UNA) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dopesmoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tenable S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where the World Ends T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Tom Wezwick and Karl Kiser
Page Views: 1,507 total, 11/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

Great warm up, but would be even better on a warm day! This rock does get some sun very early in the morning, but it is gone by around 9:00 (at least in March). The route quickly surprises you at the bottom (you may want a stick clip!). It does lighten up a little as you continue, but to have some fun technical moves.

Location

On the obvious smooth beautiful chunk of basalt on the right entrance to The Grotto, this route starts just left of the obvious crack (Bong Crack, 5.10c).

Protection

Bolts to anchor.
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10b
It's been many years since I was last on this route and I climbed it again recently. It's definitely not for the budding 5.10 leader. If you have a big enough stick clip, clip the second bolt before heading up. The moves out of the slot/chimney are awkward and the first bolt is at your feet with the second bolt well out of reach still. A fall from there would be a big sideways fall onto the first bolt--could be pretty grim. A bolt protecting the moves out of the slot would make this route much more enjoyable. Or maybe one can find some gear to protect that move and that's what was intended when the rout was established. May 4, 2015
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
 
I'll admit I'm a trad climber and I like it!! I am also tall so the reachy stuff doesn't bug me. Aug 7, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Agreed, tricky, and thought-provoking, but everything's there and there are plenty of opportunties for rests, keeping it at the 10a end IMO. Fun route for sure. Sep 1, 2008
I believe this is correct. Tom Wezwick and I cleaned the route from the old low anchor on the Bong Crack. Apr 1, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.10b
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.10b
A great climb for the grade. Trad climbers will love this thing. Apr 16, 2007
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a/b
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a/b
Unusual climb. Not for your usual 10a sport climber. Very interesting moves. Tricky the first time. I like it, but I like basalt. Oct 8, 2006