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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)

666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Class Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Clear ArĂȘte (a.k.a. UNA) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dopesmoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tenable S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trailer Park Girls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where the World Ends T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas
Page Views: 62 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Mar 1, 2009
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start up a clean panel of rock with a big ledge for hands (and eventually feet) to the first bolt. A mantel helps get your feet up on the big ledge and a stance to clip the second bolt. Tricky laybacking with a big reach lead past the second bolt to the third bolt. Sneaky, sequential climbing takes you up to the crux bulge. Pull the bulge and climb easier terrain to the anchor.
This seems to be a natural run off area and is quite dirty but if the route gets decent traffic, it'll clean up well (between storms) and is pretty fun.

Location

Just right of Venarete.

Protection

12 bolts to a two-bolt anchor

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