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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)
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666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Box of Chocolates S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Class Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crack Wars T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crystal Clear Arête S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dopesmoker S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Leper Messiah S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tenable S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Where the World Ends T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 35.80532, -106.14347 |
| FA: | Vaino Kodas |
| Page Views: | 804 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Mar 1, 2009 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo
Details
The BLM Taos Field Office implemented a Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for routes within its management area. The Diablo walls included in this plan are The Shack, Winter Wall, Sun Devil Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx. The final document can be found online: shorturl.at/FYn4f
Description
Start up a clean panel of rock with a big ledge for hands (and eventually feet) to the first bolt. A mantel helps get your feet up on the big ledge and a stance to clip the second bolt. Tricky laybacking with a big reach lead past the second bolt to the third bolt. Sneaky, sequential climbing takes you up to the crux bulge. Pull the bulge and climb easier terrain to the anchor.
This seems to be a natural run off area and is quite dirty but if the route gets decent traffic, it'll clean up well (between storms) and is pretty fun.
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