Type: Sport
FA: Theo Takeda, Alisa Green, and Walt Wehner, 2000
Page Views: 1,085 total · 7/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Nice and sustained route, with technical movement. Crux is lower on the route, and once past the mono, the worst is over. However, hold on, because it doesn't completely let up! The guidebook notes a difficult fourth clip, however, none in our party thought it was terribly difficult, though it may be if you are not solid at the grade.

Location

See climb #24 on attached map photo.

Protection

6 bolts to two bolt anchor.

Photos

Wa3lt
  5.11c
Wa3lt  
  5.11c
Hi folks - Theo Takeda, Alisa Green, and I did the FA of this route in 1999 or 2000. Can't remember exactly. We originally thought it was 12a, but that proved considerably too stiff once the route got a few ascents (and some chalk). People have told me that the route is underbolted, and if anyone feels the need to add a bolt or two, this constitutes the FA party's official permission.

-Walt Wehner Nov 26, 2006
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Hey Walt, I don't remember the route feeling underbolted, the cruxes were all well protected, and the only run out part was on easy ground at the top. Great route with fun moves.

Mike Nov 30, 2006
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.11b
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.11b
This is an excellent route, probably my favorite in the Grotto. I found it to be a bit low in the grade. It didn't seem much harder than Berger's Bakeshop. My girlfriend thought it was 10d or 11a, but she has small fingers and I'm sure she got two fingers in the 'mono'. This didn't seem the least bit runout. Apr 6, 2007
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
The first time I climbed this, I had a lot of trouble clipping the 4th bolt (making the clip was the crux of the climb?), but I didn't notice it as a problem when I got on it again when draws were already hanging. (edited)

I thought the bolt spacing was adequate. For all the toughest moves, the bolts are right where you want them.

You can use different beta to the right to bypass the direct crux sequence it seems most people use, if moving off the mono and the sloper that follows give you troubles. Mar 7, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11d
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11d
I agree with George; clipping the fourth bolt seemed noticeably harder than the crux moves. It seems like if the bolt were a foot lower or so, you would be able to clip off of some relatively good holds instead of a mono with poor feet. Definitely a shame because the moves on this route are awesome and the rock is bullet. Mar 21, 2011