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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)

666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Class Act S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Clear ArĂȘte (a.k.a. UNA) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dopesmoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tenable S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where the World Ends T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Theo Takeda, Alisa Green, and Walt Wehner, 2000
Page Views: 908 total, 6/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Nice and sustained route, with technical movement. Crux is lower on the route, and once past the mono, the worst is over. However, hold on, because it doesn't completely let up! The guidebook notes a difficult fourth clip, however, none in our party thought it was terribly difficult, though it may be if you are not solid at the grade.

Location

See climb #24 on attached map photo.

Protection

6 bolts to two bolt anchor.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.11d
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.11d
I agree with George; clipping the fourth bolt seemed noticeably harder than the crux moves. It seems like if the bolt were a foot lower or so, you would be able to clip off of some relatively good holds instead of a mono with poor feet. Definitely a shame because the moves on this route are awesome and the rock is bullet. Mar 21, 2011
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
The first time I climbed this, I had a lot of trouble clipping the 4th bolt (making the clip was the crux of the climb?), but I didn't notice it as a problem when I got on it again when draws were already hanging. (edited)

I thought the bolt spacing was adequate. For all the toughest moves, the bolts are right where you want them.

You can use different beta to the right to bypass the direct crux sequence it seems most people use, if moving off the mono and the sloper that follows give you troubles. Mar 7, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.11b
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.11b
This is an excellent route, probably my favorite in the Grotto. I found it to be a bit low in the grade. It didn't seem much harder than Berger's Bakeshop. My girlfriend thought it was 10d or 11a, but she has small fingers and I'm sure she got two fingers in the 'mono'. This didn't seem the least bit runout. Apr 6, 2007
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Hey Walt, I don't remember the route feeling underbolted, the cruxes were all well protected, and the only run out part was on easy ground at the top. Great route with fun moves.

Mike Nov 30, 2006
Wa3lt
  5.11c
Wa3lt  
  5.11c
Hi folks - Theo Takeda, Alisa Green, and I did the FA of this route in 1999 or 2000. Can't remember exactly. We originally thought it was 12a, but that proved considerably too stiff once the route got a few ascents (and some chalk). People have told me that the route is underbolted, and if anyone feels the need to add a bolt or two, this constitutes the FA party's official permission.

-Walt Wehner Nov 26, 2006