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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)
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666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Box of Chocolates S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Class Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crack Wars T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crystal Clear Arête S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dopesmoker S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Leper Messiah S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tenable S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Where the World Ends T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 35.80532, -106.14347 |
| FA: | Lee Brinckerhoff '09 equipped by Bryan Pletta |
| Page Views: | 1,903 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Nov 6, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo
Details
Description
Start climbing up a large flake hand crack or layback to the first bolt, about 15 feet. Make nice improbable moves past two more bolts to the crux. Here there are two bolts about two feet apart. Make the hard crux moves to another bolt to a nice rest. From here pass about 6 more bolts on easier ground to the anchors.
Location
On the opposite side of the arete of Rickety Rock. On the left are Ruffles Have Ridges and Crack Whores.
Grade
It's rated 10c in Beverly's Jemez Rock guide, but is probably at least 2 number grades harder. First clue was it's slightly overhanging nature with few holds. Second clue was 10c chalked on the wall with a "NO" symbol around it. So could be +/- a few letter grades but I found it way harder than the other 12b's in the area.
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