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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)

Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedeviled S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Mass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Crow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paradise City S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Chris Kessler & Karl Kiser (or Walt Wehner, Theo Takeda, Alisa Green, 2000, maybe also climbed earlier?)
Page Views: 1,380 total · 9/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A really nice trad route up the beautiful crack on the left side of the wall. Can be done either by going up into the gully and traversing right into the route. There is also a more difficult to protect start that starts directly at the bottom of the crack. Belayer can anchor into bolts at the left end of the gully, way left of the crack.

Protection

Gear up to red Camalot, wires. Long slings recommended to reduce rope drag. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
the direct start is not that difficult to protect, just need some small stuff. Best to use a cam for first piece off the ground so that directional rope drag does not lift your nut placement. Oct 26, 2006
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
Hi -

I did the FA of this route in 1999 or 2000. We installed an anchor from the mesa, cleaned, and then I led it. I believe Theo Takeda and Alisa Green were with me, but I could be misremembering.

-Walt Wehner Nov 26, 2006
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10c
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.10c
Thanks! I really appreciate that information, added. What a great first ascent, I really enjoyed this route!

Tony Dec 4, 2006
I expect this route had been led earlier, primarily because it is such a pretty line. Chris Kessler and I used a crow bar to clean some huge blocks off the route prior to the placement of the current bolt anchor. Chris led it and called it Tight Little Package. Apr 1, 2008
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
Hi Karl -

It's cool to hear that it was climbed prior to our ascent, but the crack was *full* of choss and dirt - we spent quite a bit of time cleaning (and I'm sure there's still stuff waiting to come out/off).

Didn't appear to have had an ascent, but it sounds like it did. Going ground up, you might not disturb some of the loose stuff, and it was definitely climbable by the 70s generation Santa Feans. Definitely an enticing line. Jan 2, 2009

More About Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package)

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