All Locations > New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Grotto

Gilligan's Island (a.k.a. The Alcove) Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in Gilligan's Island (a.k.a. The Alcove)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ectoplasm S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Hanging by a Thread S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Larcombe's Lament (aka Dog Bite at Diablo) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Skipper Too, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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GPS:	35.8054, -106.14319 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Scott Beguin on May 7, 2008 · Updates
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

This is a nice little island crag that offers some nice moderate climbing away from the crowds and lookey-lous typically encountered at Diablo. The rock is good and offers both sun and shade for whatever season you are there. There are great views from on top of the island. Some guide books have referred to this as the Alcove. The crux used to be getting off of the island, which is no longer an issue.

Note that historically a handful of climbs on the southwest side of the Island had been included in the Alcove area. That side of the Island has had ~15 climbs added to it in recent years and is referred to as Mordor nowadays.

Getting There

Same approach as for The Grotto . Rather than enter The Grotto veer to the west. The climbs on the north (arroyo) side of the Island are in and just to the right of a corridor that bisects the Island.