Avg: 3.9 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Ken Sims, 1989|
|Page Views:||2,233 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Jun 22, 2008|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On July 1, 2020, the New Mexico state governor issued an executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on July 1, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
Only the excellent 2nd pitch is described here. The original first pitch is in the lower tier and so it is posted on the Grotto Left (East Side) page; named Snazz by Nazz by some.
Start at the 2-bolt belay below the upper tier. 30' of chossy blocks leads to the business, an obvious overhanging hand/fist crack in a dihedral (crux). This physical portion is passed by good jamming in the corner, or by strenous liebacking, but is followed by a rest. Next is a 2nd crux, an overhanging thin hands/hands section (also solid 5.10). Easier crack climbing leads to a 2-bolt anchor just below the rim.
The first ascent history, seems to have a bit of lack of clarity.
*Karl Kiser says this route was not climbed by the old timers, because of a "huge flake left of the crack down low" which he, with Chris Kessler were able to clean from the climb. This would have been in the mid 90s (?).
*Denny Newell reported he and Jacques (?) climbed this line in the mid 90s, and that there was a giant scary flake that was going to give them the axe. He said they were searching for the 5.11 noted in Rock-N-Road. This was before there were any sport climbs at Diablo.
*D. Jackson, in Rock Climbing New Mexico, says the FA was Ken Sims in 1989, along with Rolling Brown Out the same day.
*The anchors were put in by Bradshaw, and Kisiel/Newell/Beguin.
Descent: Rappel the route back to the Grotto with 2 or 3 rappels with a single 60m rope. The top rappel is just over 30m and won't quite reach the bolted anchor with a 60m, but you'll get close enough (make sure the ends are even!). The 2nd rappel is also too far to get to the ground with a single 60m rope; a 70m will work, or split it up by stopping at the Chopping Block anchor.
Walking off is a longer but reasonable option.
Guillotine Crack is above the excellent lower tier sport climbs such as Good. You can reach the quality 2nd pitch by climbing this route, or use the original approach pitch up a 5.8 dihedral to the left of them (Snazz by Nazz, also called Access Crack in the guides).
2 each #1 camalot
2-3 each #2 camalot
1 each #3 camalot
#4 camalot optional
2-bolt anchors installed at both the start and finish of the 2nd pitch, thanks to Rick Bradshaw, who installed the upper anchor; and Scotty Beguin, Ken Kisiel, and Denny Newell, who put in the lower anchor.