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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)

Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedeviled S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Crow S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paradise City S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ken Sims, 1989
Page Views: 452 total, 4/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This dihedral is mostly 5.7 finger crack with a short well-protected 5.8 crux at the top. Rated 5.7 during it's re-discovery in the early 90's, the guidebooks have bumped it up to 5.8, and a 5.7 leader won't be happy. It's seen enough traffic so that it's not all that loose anymore, but it's main value lies in that it lets you get to the good stuff on the Upper Tier.

Team KNB (Kisiel, Newell, Beguin) is responsible for the anchor at the top of this pitch. The name Snazz By Nazz these guys gave to this pitch was unfortunately forgotten (and is one of the cooler route names around). Thanks Scott for this historical info.

Location

This is the dihedral left of Evil and Diabolical and to the right of Chopping Block.

Protection

Standard trad rack 1 set nuts, 1 set cams. (If continuing up Guillotine Crack's pitch 2 or Rolling Brown Out, you'll want more gear.)
From the 2-bolt anchor, you can rappel back to the Grotto with a single 60m rope.

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