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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)

Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedeviled S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Crow S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paradise City S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Billy Butler
Page Views: 1,385 total, 11/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 6, 2007 with updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route is Good. Begin 8 feet right of Evil. This route is also route #4 in the overview photo.

The route climbs on excellent quality rock on large edges that all slope down, making the route feel insecure and pumpy. If these edges were flat or incut the route would be 5.8. A few tricky moves over small roofs lead to a somewhat contrived left-wards traverse to the last bolt (which is shared with Evil). Finish atop the column at a 2-bolt chain anchor.

These routes stay shady until ~3pm (DST).

Location

As of 2016, This is the 6th bolted line from the left and is fully independent from Evil. Route #4 in between Evil and Bush in a Blender.

Protection

Bolts to a two-bolt anchor with chains

Photos

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10b
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10b
this climb shares nothing with "Evil", has own anchor summer '07 Dec 11, 2007
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
I was contacted by Scott Beguin, who noted Scott Beguin, Ken Kisiel, and Billy Butler. Aug 15, 2007
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
 
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
 
I can't take credit for this one. I believe the FA was done jointly by Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Denny Newell. Aug 15, 2007