Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Billy Butler
Page Views: 1,548 total · 11/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 6, 2007 with updates from George Perkins
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route is Good. Begin 8 feet right of Evil. This route is also route #4 in the overview photo.

The route climbs on excellent quality rock on large edges that all slope down, making the route feel insecure and pumpy. If these edges were flat or incut the route would be 5.8. A few tricky moves over small roofs lead to a somewhat contrived left-wards traverse to the last bolt (which is shared with Evil). Finish atop the column at a 2-bolt chain anchor.

These routes stay shady until ~3pm (DST).

Location

As of 2016, This is the 6th bolted line from the left and is fully independent from Evil. Route #4 in
Picture of lower grotto routes Courtesy of Rick Bradshaw, author of online guide: losalamos.com/diablo/defaul…. between Evil and Bush in a Blender.

Protection

Bolts to a two-bolt anchor with chains

Photos

Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
 
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
 
I can't take credit for this one. I believe the FA was done jointly by Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Denny Newell. Aug 15, 2007
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
I was contacted by Scott Beguin, who noted Scott Beguin, Ken Kisiel, and Billy Butler. Aug 15, 2007
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10b
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10b
this climb shares nothing with "Evil", has own anchor summer '07 Dec 11, 2007