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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)

Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedeviled S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Crow S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paradise City S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin
Page Views: 490 total, 4/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Jul 8, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The route is currently the first one you come to on your left on The East Wall of The Grotto, right around the corner from A Day with Dr. Diablo. This is a very continuous route at this grade and is actually not as bad as originally thought. There is some vertical Diablo type climbing that starts in a dihedral for 3 bolts then continues through four more bolts to a two bolt anchor. The crux is right between the 3rd and 5th bolts on not so positive holds that are similar to the ones found on Good but a lot smaller and worse. I think the route is slightly technical, very continuous, and has an endurance crux. K.S.R. may also be used as an approach(5.8 runout) to The Skyline Arete and "Medusa" on the upper tier of The East Wall of The Grotto.

Location

Same as for Diablo Canyon.

Protection

Seven quickdraws to a two bolt chained anchor. Small to medium cams(optional) for the 5.8 runout if continuing to the upper tier. There is a bombproof two bolt anchor on the upper tier that you can get off with a 60 meter rope to the north side of the KSR buttress.

Photos

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10d
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10d
While installing Under Powered I had the opportunity to finally clean off some of the bad rock on KSR. I dont htink the grade has changed at all, some former holds are gone, some new ones arrived. Hoping its a little safer now, not claiming its totally clean, just better. I do feel that its way more enjoyable without worrying if your hold will break your tooth. Aug 14, 2015