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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side) Lower Tier
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Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bedeviled S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Book of Souls, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Loose Bottom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Muscle Crow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Paradise City S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pull Towards Darkness S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 35.80499, -106.14337 |
| FA: | Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Denny Newell |
| Page Views: | 2,143 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Apr 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo
Details
The BLM Taos Field Office implemented a Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for routes within its management area. The Diablo walls included in this plan are The Shack, Winter Wall, Sun Devil Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx. The final document can be found online: shorturl.at/FYn4f
Description
This fine route is the fourth bolted route (on the E wall) approached in the Lower Grotto. The route follows a rounded arete, occasionally veering onto the face to the right.
Begin right on the arete, where a few tricky moves get you over the intimidating roof, to a no-hands stance and the 3rd bolt. From here, it seems most folks veer right onto the face, with small rounded crimps on light-gray stone. However, its also possible, and perhaps a bit easier, to stay on the arete, using larger, textured sidepulls and edges. After the 5th bolt you used to head right to the last bolt of Good and a shared anchor, but an independent direct finish was added in summer '07.
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