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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)

Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedeviled S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Crow S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paradise City S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Denny Newell
Page Views: 946 total, 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 6, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

This fine route is the fourth bolted route (on the E wall) approached in the Lower Grotto. The route follows a rounded arete, occasionally veering onto the face to the right.

Begin right on the arete, where a few tricky moves get you over the intimidating roof, to a no-hands stance and the 3rd bolt. From here, it seems most folks veer right onto the face, with small rounded crimps on light-gray stone. However, its also possible, and perhaps a bit easier, to stay on the arete, using larger, textured sidepulls and edges. After the 5th bolt you used to head right to the last bolt of Good and a shared anchor, but an independent direct finish was added in summer '07.

Location

Route #3 in the overview photo.

Protection

6 bolts. 2 Bolt chain anchor.

Photos

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Um, you're kidding right?

I didn't change a thing to this route. There is now an optional last bolt to an individual anchor, separate from Good, so two parties can climb without battling for the anchor. You are still free to climb this in its original form, nothing changed, and traverse to the shared anchor with Good. All bolts (for better or worse) from the original line are intact, you should be happy to hear.

Rather than guessing at what it "sounds like", go check it out. Personally, I would welcome someone helping out my route to make it better. I don't claim to have done a perfect job every route I've set. Take Clovis Hunter for example. Lance went ahead without asking and put up an alternate finish on that route, which was already a very frequented classic line in the Solar Cave. He also moved the location of two bolts near the crux to reduce ankle or shin damage. I was psyched and thanked him. He gave something to the climbing community that will last a long time and improve the overall quality of the crag!!!

Also, see my comment for Chopping Block. It applies here too.

lazily typed from my computer chair....

-aaron Jan 4, 2013
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10d
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10d
Aaron, if you are going to take it upon yourself and retrobolt a route that didn't need it, do it right. It sounds like it is more dangerous than the original line. Don't be lazy. Better yet, leave it alone. It had already been done. Go find a new line, there is plenty of rock out there. Jan 8, 2009
Guillatine crack above this route was not done by the old trad masters because of a huge flake to the left of the crack down low. Chris Kessler and I cleaned it off prior to the placement of the anchor at the top of the pitch. It is indeed a great pitch.

Greg Swift and Tim Johnson climbed the crack system immediately to the right by 1984 but unknown whether this was a FA. Apr 2, 2008
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
  • Its the fourth route from the entrance
  • I put last bolt and separate anchors in Summer '07
  • Don't blow fourth clip or will hit the ledge, or worse. Could use retro bolting here.
Dec 11, 2007
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
I can't take credit for this one. I believe the FA was done jointly by Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Denny Newell. Aug 15, 2007