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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)
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Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bedeviled S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Book of Souls, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Loose Bottom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Muscle Crow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Paradise City S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Denny Newell |
| Page Views: | 2,032 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Apr 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
This fine route is the fourth bolted route (on the E wall) approached in the Lower Grotto. The route follows a rounded arete, occasionally veering onto the face to the right.
Begin right on the arete, where a few tricky moves get you over the intimidating roof, to a no-hands stance and the 3rd bolt. From here, it seems most folks veer right onto the face, with small rounded crimps on light-gray stone. However, its also possible, and perhaps a bit easier, to stay on the arete, using larger, textured sidepulls and edges. After the 5th bolt you used to head right to the last bolt of Good and a shared anchor, but an independent direct finish was added in summer '07.
Begin right on the arete, where a few tricky moves get you over the intimidating roof, to a no-hands stance and the 3rd bolt. From here, it seems most folks veer right onto the face, with small rounded crimps on light-gray stone. However, its also possible, and perhaps a bit easier, to stay on the arete, using larger, textured sidepulls and edges. After the 5th bolt you used to head right to the last bolt of Good and a shared anchor, but an independent direct finish was added in summer '07.
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