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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)

Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedeviled S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Crow S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paradise City S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, Denny Newell and Shibli Fazal (1996)
Page Views: 2,700 total, 19/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Slightly bouldery at the start, once past the second bolt the climbing becomes easier. Pumpy finish through through the top crimpers to the anchors.

Location

See climb # 6 on map.

Protection

9 bolts to anchor.
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Don't forget to include Shibli Fazal for the FA crew. He was not there for the send but he cleaned literally tons of rock off this thing before it was ready and good to go.
This is still my all time original favorite sport route at Diablo. Do it again and again. Jun 18, 2016
DGraham
Dallas
  5.11a
DGraham   Dallas
  5.11a
A must climb (again) next time I pass through the santa fe area! Mar 30, 2014
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
  5.11a
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
  5.11a
An excellent route. I would say 11a is reasonable. If your friends walk up to this thing and tell you it's an easy 5.10a warmup... don't believe them. Unless you think 11a is an easy warmup that is. May 6, 2009
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
I believe the FA was done jointly by Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Denny Newel. Aug 15, 2007
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
I recently cleaned this route well after putting up Muscle Crow. It might be a little harder at the upper crux but the climbing is way cleaner and better. I'd give it 11a. Oct 26, 2006