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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)
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Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bedeviled S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Book of Souls, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Loose Bottom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Muscle Crow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Paradise City S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne (2008) |
| Page Views: | 2,328 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Chuck McQuade on Jul 13, 2009 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Bedeviled begins on the arete and eventually moves left to a short crack over a bulge. The belay anchors of the Unnamed Crack are on the ledge above this bulge, but Bedeviled continues up and right without using these anchors. Move over another bulge (technical crux) and cruise to the anchors.
The variety of climbing and features (arete, face, traverse, and 2 bulges), makes this route an area classic! Well in my book:)
The variety of climbing and features (arete, face, traverse, and 2 bulges), makes this route an area classic! Well in my book:)
Location
Look for the next arete to the right from Waiting to Procrastinate. Belay on a shelf just up and right from the "Unnamed Crack".
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