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Routes in Upper Tier of The Grotto

Guillotine Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mary Poppins S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Skyline Arete, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Scott Beguin
Page Views: 379 total, 3/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Jul 8, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start at a two bolt belay found 20' over the anchors for Ken's Shitty Route. Start on some very exposed 5.10 climbing on lesser quality rock for about 40' to a wicked stretchy and airy traverse out to the right side arete(crux), to some more exposed gnarly thin climbing up edges and thin cracks. 13 bolts total to a two bolt anchor. An exposed arete adventure.

Location

The northern skyline arete feature on the upper tier of the east wall of The Grotto. Accessed by climbing K.S.R.

Protection

15 quickdraws to a springer anchor and a 60 meter rope minimum to get off.

Photos

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Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
 
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
 
Don't claim victory too soon on this one, the harder crux in my opinion is above the traverse negotiating the thin terrain after the crack peters out closer to the top. Fun movement combined with exposed and picturesque climbing. Apr 16, 2008