Elevation: 7,940 ft
GPS: 34.23, -107.917 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 198,796 total · 1,190/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jan 24, 2006 with improvements by George Perkins
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Beautiful sport climbing on amazing clastic flow (or welded tuff, I am not sure, see the below comment!). In my opinion, this is the best sport climbing in New Mexico. Note that the guidebook that exists for this area is certainly worth the purchase, it has great topos and directions to the climbs and areas.

An excellent history of Socorro-area climbing, including the Enchanted Tower, is worth a read.

Keeping Enchanted Tower Clean: PACK OUT YOUR POO!

This is an important topic that is worthy of discussion with more climbers visiting enchanted tower. The area surrounding enchanted tower is a beautiful one and I'm sure everyone agrees, we would like to keep it that way.

An ever increaing amount of human waste is being found surrounding the camping area and even at the base of the crags (disgusting!). The idea of a pit toilet has been discussed. However, for various reasons, it sounds as if this is currently not an option.

The use of Wag Bags or RestStop2 bags are an ideal solution! Or, and alternative might be a bucket with a lid and plastic kitchen garbage bags. Put the bags in the bucket like you would a regular garbage bin, do your business in the bag, tie it up and put the lid on. You can even add litter or some other liquid absorbing media.

Used Wag Bags or RestStop2 bags can be disposed of with regular trash, such as a dumpster as you pass through Datil on your way back to Albuquerque.

For more on this, please see the discussion below or here:
Enchanted Tower: Are we our own worst enemy?

No toilet paper fairy

Getting There

For many years climbers enjoyed privileged, short and easy access to Thompson Canyon and the Enchanted Tower via a crossing through a private ranch south of the Tower. Unfortunately, continued abuse of this privileged access by both climbers and other land users forced the ranch caretakers to close this access. As a result, the standard access to the Tower is now via a longer (45 minutes), rougher road by the Davenport Lookout. The directions here reflect this new standard driving approach.

Standard Access:
Access to the Enchanted Tower is via a long, rough road through Thompson Canyon/Davenport Lookout. High clearance highly recommended. The following directions are provided by Jason Halladay, May 2013.

From the intersection of Highway 60 and Highway 12 in Datil, NM, drive 9 miles west on Highway 60 to a signed turn at the dirt Forest Road 6. Turn right on Forest Road 6 and drive 2.8 miles north on FR6, past the now-defunct Mojave Academy buildings, to Forest Road 59. Use caution on this stretch of road and drive slowly as there is a gate you'll have to open and close as you pass through private property. To this point the road is good dirt road. After passing through the gate and private property, turn right on FR 59 up to the Davenport Lookout and begin the steep, loose and rough ascent up the road towards the Davenport Lookout.

The road quickly gets steeper and rougher as it ascends to the Davenport Lookout. Just before the Davenport Lookout, below a large tower, take the road to the right that quickly descends into Thompson Canyon and turns into Thompson Canyon Road. The distance from FR6 to this turnoff onto Thompson Canyon Road is 2.9 miles.

Continue on the occasionally-rough Thompson Canyon Road, past The Land Beyond, for 4.5 miles to The Enchanted Tower area.

From Highway 60 this approach takes 45 to 60 minutes. High clearance is highly recommended. A Subaru Outback or similar will do OK with careful driving.

Crags

East to West, or right to left as you see them from the road.

- The Giants Molars

- Frog Prince: Many good routes from 5.10b to 5.HARD

- Rapunzel Wall: Nice beginners wall. This and Mother Goose wall are great for beginning leaders. Bolts can be a bit high and the cruxes are at the start.

- The Enchanted Tower: The namesake of the place; beautiful. Routes from 5.11b to 5.13a.

- Humpty Dumpty Wall

- Sleeping Beauty Wall: Nice selection of 10s and 11s.

- Captain Hook's Grotto

- Midnight Pumpkin Wall

- Ugly Duckling Boulder

- Pogue's Cave Area: A number of great 10s and 11s.

- Mother Goose Wall: Largest selection of beginner routes at the tower. Again, a good wall for the aspiring leader.

- Renaissance Wall: Only three routes on this wall, one being the hardest at Datil at 5.13+.

- The Land Beyond: Continue driving down the road to this one. About 1.5 miles west, past the main tower area. A few 10s but a great selection of .11 and .12 routes.

Resources

- The Enchanted Tower-Pockets Full O' Fun by Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Guy Agee (2003, E Squared Enterprises)
- Now defunct original online guide snapshot from October 2009 via wayback machine.
- Dr. Topo also has an online PDF guidebook. Go into the website (drtopo.com/) and go into the miniguides section, and click on New Mexico.
alpha.drtopo.com/north-amer…
- Rock Climbing: New Mexico by Dennis Jackson
- Cibola National Forest updates and closure notices (Look for Magdalena Ranger District information for the Enchanted Tower)

Historical Access Information

For many years climbers enjoyed privileged, short and easy access to Thompson Canyon and the Enchanted Tower via a crossing through a private ranch south of the Tower. Unfortunately, continued abuse of this privileged access by both climbers and other land users forced the ranch caretakers to close this access. As a result, the standard access to the Tower is now via a longer (45 minutes), rougher road by the Davenport Lookout. The directions in the "Getting There" section on this page reflect this now standard driving approach.

Previous, privileged access that is no longer open:
This information is left here for historical purposes. As of April 2013 this access is no longer a viable option. Please do not attempt to use this access and further damage the reputation of climbers. This access was lost due to many issues including:
* Arriving after dark despite sign clearly stating no entry after dark. Seriously *NEVER* drive on the ranch road after dark! Camp at the Datil Well Campground outside of Datil and drive in in the morning.
* Parking on the private land blocking the road maintenance equipment
* Littering and/or throwing lit cigarette butts onto the grass
* Breaking down or otherwise seeking assistance from the ranch caretaker at late hours
* Unattended campfires
* Accessing forest land during Stage III fire restrictions
* Shooting at cattle and cutting fences
* Leaving gates wide open
* Improper disposal of human waste
* Wear on the road due to excessive driving speeds on ranch land

PRIVATE ROAD RESTRICTIONS
This road is private property for the next 1.5 miles. Please respect the restrictions below. If you do not, permission to use the road will likely be revoked.

Timing - This road is closed for through traffic at all the following times:
*[From 1 September to 30 January]
*All public holidays (including adjacent Mondays and Fridays); and
*At any time after dark.
*The owner may temporarily close it at other times. Please respect temporary signs.

Use of road - When using the private road:
*You do so at your own risk. It is not maintained and, for example, is unsuitable for passenger cars.
*No RVs or other heavy vehicles are permitted.
*Do not exceed 15 mph.
*Leave gates as you find them (open or closed).
*[Remove all waste, including human waste].

130 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Enchanted Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 86
Freddie Prince Jr
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 90
Cheshire Cat
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 72
Tarred and Feathered
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 69
Ooey Gooey
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 95
Pogue's Arete
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 133
Grendel
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 67
Sleeping Beauty
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 82
Once Upon a Time
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 111
Golden Stairs
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 85
Technowitch
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 74
Flotsam & Jetsam
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 80
Rumplestiltskin
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 55
Jabberwocky
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 45
Shipwrecked
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 35
Goliath
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Freddie Prince Jr Frog Prince
 86
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cheshire Cat Sleeping Beauty Wall
 90
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Tarred and Feathered Sleeping Beauty Wall
 72
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Ooey Gooey Pogue's Cave Area
 69
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pogue's Arete Pogue's Cave Area
 95
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Grendel Enchanted Tower > N (Left) Face
 133
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sleeping Beauty Sleeping Beauty Wall
 67
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Once Upon a Time Enchanted Tower > N (Left) Face
 82
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Golden Stairs Enchanted Tower > South/Southeast (Righ…
 111
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Technowitch Enchanted Tower > N (Left) Face
 85
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flotsam & Jetsam Enchanted Tower > South/Southeast (Righ…
 74
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rumplestiltskin Enchanted Tower > N (Left) Face
 80
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Jabberwocky Enchanted Tower > N (Left) Face
 55
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Shipwrecked Enchanted Tower > South/Southeast (Righ…
 45
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Goliath Enchanted Tower > South/Southeast (Righ…
 35
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Enchanted Tower »

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