|GPS:||34.23, -107.917 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Anthony Stout on Jan 24, 2006|
Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
History (Admin Only): Jason Halladay edited "Getting There" Mar 25, 2019 View all 4
Jason Halladay edited "Getting There" Sep 8, 2019
Jason Halladay edited "Getting There" Sep 9, 2019
Jason Halladay edited "Getting There" Sep 23, 2019
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
An excellent history of Socorro-area climbing, including the Enchanted Tower, is worth a read.
An ever increaing amount of human waste is being found surrounding the camping area and even at the base of the crags (disgusting!). The idea of a pit toilet has been discussed. However, for various reasons, it sounds as if this is currently not an option.
The use of Wag Bags or RestStop2 bags are an ideal solution! Or, and alternative might be a bucket with a lid and plastic kitchen garbage bags. Put the bags in the bucket like you would a regular garbage bin, do your business in the bag, tie it up and put the lid on. You can even add litter or some other liquid absorbing media.
Used Wag Bags or RestStop2 bags can be disposed of with regular trash, such as a dumpster as you pass through Datil on your way back to Albuquerque.
For more on this, please see the discussion below or here:
Enchanted Tower: Are we our own worst enemy?
No toilet paper fairy
Access to the Enchanted Tower is via a long, rough road through Thompson Canyon/Davenport Lookout. High clearance highly recommended. The following directions are provided by Jason Halladay, May 2013.
From the intersection of Highway 60 and Highway 12 in Datil, NM, drive 9 miles west on Highway 60 to a signed turn at the dirt Forest Road 6. Turn right on Forest Road 6 and drive 2.8 miles north on FR6, past the now-defunct Mojave Academy buildings, to Forest Road 59. Use caution on this stretch of road and drive slowly as there is a gate you'll have to open and close as you pass through private property. To this point the road is good dirt road. After passing through the gate and private property, turn right on FR 59 up to the Davenport Lookout and begin the steep, loose and rough ascent up the road towards the Davenport Lookout.
The road quickly gets steeper and rougher as it ascends to the Davenport Lookout. Just before the Davenport Lookout, below a large tower, take the road to the right that quickly descends into Thompson Canyon and turns into Thompson Canyon Road. The distance from FR6 to this turnoff onto Thompson Canyon Road is 2.9 miles.
Continue on the occasionally-rough Thompson Canyon Road, past The Land Beyond, for 4.5 miles to The Enchanted Tower area.
From Highway 60 this approach takes 45 to 60 minutes. High clearance is highly recommended. A Subaru Outback or similar will do OK with careful driving.
- The Giants Molars
- Frog Prince: Many good routes from 5.10b to 5.HARD
- Rapunzel Wall: Nice beginners wall. This and Mother Goose wall are great for beginning leaders. Bolts can be a bit high and the cruxes are at the start.
- The Enchanted Tower: The namesake of the place; beautiful. Routes from 5.11b to 5.13a.
- Humpty Dumpty Wall
- Sleeping Beauty Wall: Nice selection of 10s and 11s.
- Captain Hook's Grotto
- Midnight Pumpkin Wall
- Ugly Duckling Boulder
- Pogue's Cave Area: A number of great 10s and 11s.
- Mother Goose Wall: Largest selection of beginner routes at the tower. Again, a good wall for the aspiring leader.
- Renaissance Wall: Only three routes on this wall, one being the hardest at Datil at 5.13+.
- The Land Beyond: Continue driving down the road to this one. About 1.5 miles west, past the main tower area. A few 10s but a great selection of .11 and .12 routes.
- Now defunct original online guide snapshot from October 2009 via wayback machine.
- Dr. Topo also has an online PDF guidebook. Go into the website (drtopo.com/) and go into the miniguides section, and click on New Mexico.
- Rock Climbing: New Mexico by Dennis Jackson
- Cibola National Forest updates and closure notices (Look for Magdalena Ranger District information for the Enchanted Tower)
Historical Access Information
Previous, privileged access that is no longer open:
This information is left here for historical purposes. As of April 2013 this access is no longer a viable option. Please do not attempt to use this access and further damage the reputation of climbers. This access was lost due to many issues including:
* Arriving after dark despite sign clearly stating no entry after dark. Seriously *NEVER* drive on the ranch road after dark! Camp at the Datil Well Campground outside of Datil and drive in in the morning.
* Parking on the private land blocking the road maintenance equipment
* Littering and/or throwing lit cigarette butts onto the grass
* Breaking down or otherwise seeking assistance from the ranch caretaker at late hours
* Unattended campfires
* Accessing forest land during Stage III fire restrictions
* Shooting at cattle and cutting fences
* Leaving gates wide open
* Improper disposal of human waste
* Wear on the road due to excessive driving speeds on ranch land
PRIVATE ROAD RESTRICTIONS
This road is private property for the next 1.5 miles. Please respect the restrictions below. If you do not, permission to use the road will likely be revoked.
Timing - This road is closed for through traffic at all the following times:
*[From 1 September to 30 January]
*All public holidays (including adjacent Mondays and Fridays); and
*At any time after dark.
*The owner may temporarily close it at other times. Please respect temporary signs.
Use of road - When using the private road:
*You do so at your own risk. It is not maintained and, for example, is unsuitable for passenger cars.
*No RVs or other heavy vehicles are permitted.
*Do not exceed 15 mph.
*Leave gates as you find them (open or closed).
*[Remove all waste, including human waste].
Classic Climbing Routes at Enchanted Tower
Days w Precip