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Routes in South/Southeast (Right) Face

B.F.G., The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Cast Away S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chips Ahoy S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Flotsam & Jetsam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Stairs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goliath S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hippogriff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Medusa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shipwrecked S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Eric Rhicard & Guy Agee, 2001
Page Views: 2,504 total · 17/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 19, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

72 Opinions

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details


Start on platform, can clip first bolt from ground. Tricky pumpy start leads to a great rest around the middle of the route. Just when you think you have the route sent, the chalk dies out and you hit the crux coming to the chains.


Between Hippogriff and Shipwrecked


9 Bolts + Anchors


1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
The platform is gone and the first bolt is a couple of moves up now. A stick could be helpful. Aug 12, 2007
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
As stated above, where there used to be a large platform, there is now just dirt. I found using a stick clip comforting as it's a difficult first clip and some of the lower foot holds were flexing on me. Note that you used to be able to reach up and clip the first bolt from the "ground".... Or a platform that was there in the past. Oct 15, 2007
  5.11d PG13
  5.11d PG13
It seems the platform is back. This is a great route that I feel is more 11d. It is not as pumpy as Rumple and does not have a dyno as in Technowitch which are listed as 12a. Still, it rivals all other 11's on the Tower and is a shame it does not see more traffic. Mar 3, 2009
Agree with Gummy. Full value 11d (or call it 12a), a route not to be missed when you're working your way up the grades at the Tower. Jan 19, 2010
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Added a bolt to the start today as the holds you use to reach the first clip are not the most sound. Jun 22, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Thanks for the route maintenance Eric. Jun 22, 2010
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
Slightly weak 3 stars...good movement and decent pump. Too bad the rests are a bit too good for real continuity. Jul 11, 2010
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
I'm not sure why folks are not giving this more stars. My partners and I (4 of us) thought that this was the best 12a that we climbed while visiting (the other 12a's we did were Rumple, Techno, and Servants of the Secret...). The reason I liked it so much was that it had some great technical climbing down low combined with more standard Tower enduro pocket pulling up high; the split styles of climbing really enhanced the quality of the route IMHO. Apr 26, 2011

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