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Routes in South/Southeast (Right) Face

B.F.G., The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Cast Away S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flotsam & Jetsam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Stairs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goliath S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hippogriff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Medusa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shipwrecked S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Roald Dahl
Page Views: 979 total, 15/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 2, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

This variation to the finish of Goliath keeps the climber right on the arete for the duration. By staying on the arete a handful of hard moves are added past where one would pull right onto the face. Slightly harder than Goliath.

The top is still a bit flakey. Will be worth more stars with more traffic.

Location

Goliath and then some more arete.

Protection

After the steepest part of the Goliath arete continue past 4 bolts just left of the a ret to the top.

Photos

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Yeah, I figured a letter harder than Goliath Apr 15, 2013
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.13b
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.13b
This would be 4 stars and ultra classic like Goliath if it was the original line instead of a variation. As it cleans up it will be an easy three stars. Adds another 2 bolts of hard climbing, then you get some nice rests so the very top is still trivial. I'm guessing 13b since I've always considered Goliath to be on the upper side of 13a. Apr 15, 2013
Cool, it may end up being the line since it is more direct and stays on the arete and in the steeps. No one climbs Goliath to get to the slab, but because of the position and BFG seems like a great continuation. Funny how these things sit around for years sometimes. It seems like a very obvious extension/variation. Sep 7, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Sounds like a cool line and a worthwhile addition. Pics?? Sep 6, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Yeah, its a little flaky in spots above where the hard climbing ends and some of the pockets will still fill with sand and need to be cleaned out before attempting. For reference, I hung draws on Goliath for someone and brushed out the pockets when lowering down prior to sending the route, I still had the lip of a pocket higher up crumble while I was pulling on it. So, yeah, with more action it should clean up and certainly be worth 3 stars, super fun slapping on the arete above where Goliath moves right onto the face. Sep 6, 2012
Why two stars? It looked pretty cool from the old line. Does it just need traffic? Sep 6, 2012