Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Geoff Weigand, early 1990s
Page Views: 4,668 total · 30/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 19, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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45 Opinions

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Powerful start to some technical pocket pulling. After this you get a good rest to an endurance finish. Yes the mono's can be avoided at the bottom, and don't grab the chains at the finish.

Location

Between Golden Stairs and Flotsam and Jetsam.

Protection

9 Bolts + Anchors
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.12c
I'm surprised folks only give this 3 stars. What more does a route have to do to satisfy one's thirst? Dec 10, 2006
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
The new guidebook uses a three star system. If I was using a four star system it would have four stars. I think this climb is one of the most aesthetic sport routes in AZ or NM. Dec 18, 2006
jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
Middle part is too easy to warrant 4 stars IMHO. It's a slightly weak 3 stars for me. Jan 29, 2008
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12c/d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12c/d
Aesthetically speaking, this route is excellent. I think it would get a perfect rating on any scale, if it did not back off after the monos and up the flake before hitting the endurance crux. It stands as one of my favorite onsights. I did American Psycho OS the same day, and was nowhere near as psyched. The only thing to top Shipwrecked, is Goliath...for a similar grade. May 12, 2009
2 yrs to the day I finally sent this thing Sat 5/23/09! Definitely gets my vote for one of the best routes I've ever done. May 27, 2009
Dave Wachter
  5.12c
Dave Wachter  
  5.12c
Gotta agree with Mono. The respite you get after the low technical crux offers little in the way of meaningful recovery, especially given the pumpiness of the top section. Charging through the mid-section efficiently and enjoying its airy bolt spacing added to the experience for me rather than detracting. I have yet to hear somebody complain that they had too much energy left when they clipped the anchors after the final bulge. Nov 5, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
I think I get a knee bar up there and that really helps. Dec 10, 2009
What don't you get a knee bar on, Rhicard? Dec 10, 2009
WSnyder  
Replaced missing hanger at 1st bolt. Bolt appeared ok so I don't know why the hanger was missing. Maybe the old hanger finally gave up? Thanks to JB for donating the hardware. Jul 11, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12c
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12c
Simply outstanding. Great technical climbing down low to endurance climbing up high. The more powerful climbing down low provides a nice change of pace compared to the enduro climbing found on most of the other Tower routes.

DTP mentions in the route description that you can avoid the monos on this thing, but I'm not sure how this would be accomplished without traversing a ways right or left (or perhaps having sick enough pinch strength to yard on the sloper between the monos). Furthermore, I am not much of a bouldery climber and I thought the mono sequence could be executed without having to pull particularly hard. Moreover, the mono sequence was superb climbing and I wouldn't skip it even if I could. Apr 26, 2011
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
DTP may have meant what I learned when I did it thanks to beta from a friend of mine. If you use the horizontal correctly and your feet well you only need to use one of the monos and it becomes more of a balance move than a powerful tendon ripping affair. Took a bit to figure out that if I turned one of my heels 45 degrees I could use the middle pocket (I think) without hurting my finger. One of the reasons I love climbing is subtle things like that make a move so much easier. May 2, 2011
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12c
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12c

It's been almost 5 years now but what I can remember from looking at the attached photo is:
From the good horizontal jug rail I went up right hand to the hold that is near J. Albers forehead. I was able to get two fingers in this shallow hold (maybe most people can only use this as a mono). Then I went up left hand to another small hold (shown just above J. Alber's head), then went up (I think rt hand) to the pocket jugs.

This was one of my most memorable onsights. At the anchors I was so pumped and throwing to tiny pockets so hard that I split a finger nail on my right hand down the center. May 2, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12c
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12c
I definitely agree with EFR about subtle body english taking the sting out of the mono sequence....you really shouldn't need to get burly there.

From DTP's comment, it sounds like we use the same holds (and yes, the right pocket is only a mono for me). That's a proud onsight DTP, as I thought Shipwrecked required good reading skills, technical climbing on the lower wall, and endurance to finish out...all of 12c IMHO. The grade is a possible onsight for me and while I pumped out before the final bolt on the upper headwall, I was so psyched on the route quality that I was still all smiles. May 2, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
One can actually skip BOTH mono pockets, I've seen it done by someone with an aversion to small pockets, not that I'm saying it is easier... May 3, 2011
Heathennation
Choss Valley, Arizona
 
Heathennation   Choss Valley, Arizona
 
Awesome movement on this route, looks a little less traveled than the other routes on the Tower. A must-do regardless!

The mono move isn't so bad as long as you make sure your feet are set. Sep 8, 2015
Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
  5.12c
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
  5.12c
Incredible climb, 50 million STARS! MUST DO @ the grade. Jun 20, 2017