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Routes in South/Southeast (Right) Face

B.F.G., The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Cast Away S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chips Ahoy S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Flotsam & Jetsam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Stairs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goliath S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hippogriff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Medusa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shipwrecked S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Ed Strang (2015)
Page Views: 121 total · 35/month
Shared By: DaveT on Jul 10, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

This is the chossy but fun (and difficult) left variation to the beginning of Cast Away. Instead of starting on Shipwrecked, start at the bolt line one tier down and left. Climb up and right through 5 big shiny bolts dedicated to Chips Ahoy before traversing right into the easier middle section of Shipwrecked for 1 bolt, then continue up and slightly right as per Cast Away for the remainder of the route.

The movement in Chips Ahoy is actually quite good. You'll find a bit of everything – funky slab to start, thuggery through the overhang, then some big pulls and some small pockets. It’s possible to find a quality flowing sequence through it all.

That all said, the rock quality through the first 4 bolts is poor. There are loose blocks between bolts 1 and 2 – they’re not huge and they’re not very high up, but still definitely a concern. After that, the rock is safer but flaky and sandy around bolts 3 and 4. After bolt 4 the rock becomes solid again before you get into Shipwrecked.

Recommend stick clipping the first two bolts in case those blocks come off.

Location

Bolt line left of Shipwrecked. Climb up and right into Shipwrecked - ignore the empty studs that go straight up.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

DaveT
Albuquerque
  5.13b/c
DaveT   Albuquerque
  5.13b/c
I felt the crux was still the headwall of Cast Away, though the stout overhang of this route adds a bit to the pump. I thought Cast Away was a or b so I gave this b/c. Sounds like I'm grading a bit softer than Ed but that headwall crux feels like 13c territory after all that climbing.
Stars will definitely go up as this thing gets cleaned up! Jul 10, 2018
Owen S.
Los Alamos
Owen S.   Los Alamos
Ed wasn't going to post this until he'd returned to pry off those loose flakes. In the meantime I guess he lost interest in climbing and has been mtn biking a load. I thought Ed gave it 13c. Jul 11, 2018

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