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Chips Ahoy

5.13b, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Ed Strang (2015)
New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > Enchanted Tower > South/Southeast (Righ…
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Description

This is the chossy but fun (and difficult) left variation to the beginning of Cast Away. Instead of starting on Shipwrecked, start at the bolt line one tier down and left. Climb up and right through 5 big shiny bolts dedicated to Chips Ahoy before traversing right into the easier middle section of Shipwrecked for 1 bolt, then continue up and slightly right as per Cast Away for the remainder of the route.

The movement in Chips Ahoy is actually quite good. You'll find a bit of everything – funky slab to start, thuggery through the overhang, then some big pulls and some small pockets. It’s possible to find a quality flowing sequence through it all.

That all said, the rock quality through the first 4 bolts is poor. There are loose blocks between bolts 1 and 2 – they’re not huge and they’re not very high up, but still definitely a concern. After that, the rock is safer but flaky and sandy around bolts 3 and 4. After bolt 4 the rock becomes solid again before you get into Shipwrecked.

Recommend stick clipping the first two bolts in case those blocks come off.

Location

Bolt line left of Shipwrecked. Climb up and right into Shipwrecked - ignore the empty studs that go straight up.

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Moving through the steep beginning
[Hide Photo] Moving through the steep beginning

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

DaveT
Albuquerque
  5.13b/c
[Hide Comment] I felt the crux was still the headwall of Cast Away, though the stout overhang of this route adds a bit to the pump. I thought Cast Away was a or b so I gave this b/c. Sounds like I'm grading a bit softer than Ed but that headwall crux feels like 13c territory after all that climbing.
Stars will definitely go up as this thing gets cleaned up! Jul 10, 2018
[Hide Comment] Ed wasn't going to post this until he'd returned to pry off those loose flakes. In the meantime I guess he lost interest in climbing and has been mtn biking a load. I thought Ed gave it 13c. Jul 11, 2018
[Hide Comment] Needs glue in the first 1/4 Feb 9, 2019