Elevation: 8,000 ft
GPS: 34.231, -107.917 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,000 total · 480/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Feb 15, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

What can you say about this? Many areas have striking formations that are just begging to be climbed. They don't beg any harder than this one! The inverted wedge of Enchanted Tower features lots of hard routes on usually overhanging rock. One the easiest and most obvious (and therefore most popular) routes on the Tower proper is Golden Stairs at 5.11c (originally rated 5.12a). This is likely the only route you'll encounter a line on. From there, the difficulty goes all the way into the 5.13's, including the amazing and picturesque Goliath (5.13a). Bring the big guns!

The Tower is commonly broken up into three distinct faces. The typically shaded North (Left) Face, the typically sunny West (Center) Faceand the South/Southeast (Right) Face.

Climbing began at the Tower in the early 80s when students at the nearby New Mexico Tech college in Socorro were tipped off about a huge "mushroom rock" by a local forest service ranger.

Getting There

If you can't find the Tower, you're in big trouble! Trails come up from the parking area below and also from the areas across to the left. Approach time about two minutes.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Enchanted Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 147
Grendel
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 90
Once Upon a Time
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 122
Golden Stairs
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 90
Technowitch
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 78
Flotsam & Jetsam
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 86
Rumplestiltskin
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 57
Jabberwocky
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 27
Full Rubber Mission
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 46
Tinkerbell's Nightmare
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 32
Straight On Til Morning
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
David
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 35
Zee Wicked Witch
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 46
Shipwrecked
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 15
Ripped Van Winkle
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 40
Goliath
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Grendel N (Left) Face
 147
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Once Upon a Time N (Left) Face
 90
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Golden Stairs South/Southeast (Righ…
 122
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Technowitch N (Left) Face
 90
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flotsam & Jetsam South/Southeast (Righ…
 78
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rumplestiltskin N (Left) Face
 86
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Jabberwocky N (Left) Face
 57
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Full Rubber Mission N (Left) Face
 27
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Tinkerbell's Nightmare N (Left) Face
 46
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Straight On Til Morning N (Left) Face
 32
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
David South/Southeast (Righ…
 13
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Zee Wicked Witch W (Center) Face
 35
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Shipwrecked South/Southeast (Righ…
 46
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ripped Van Winkle W (Center) Face
 15
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Goliath South/Southeast (Righ…
 40
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Enchanted Tower »

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