Mountain Project Logo

Areas in The Enchanted Tower

North (Left) Face 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
South/Southeast (Right) Face 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
West (Center) Face 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 8,000 ft
GPS: 34.231, -107.917 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 48,140 total, 335/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Feb 15, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Getting weather forecast...

Description

What can you say about this? Many areas have striking formations that are just begging to be climbed. They don't beg any harder than this one! The inverted wedge of Enchanted Tower features lots of hard routes on usually overhanging rock. One the easiest and most obvious (and therefore most popular) routes on the Tower proper is Golden Stairs at 5.11c (originally rated 5.12a). This is likely the only route you'll encounter a line on. From there, the difficulty goes all the way into the 5.13's, including the amazing and picturesque Goliath (5.13a). Bring the big guns!

The Tower is commonly broken up into three distinct faces. The typically shaded North (Left) Face, the typically sunny West (Center) Faceand the South/Southeast (Right) Face.

Climbing began at the Tower in the early 80s when students at the nearby New Mexico Tech college in Socorro were tipped off about a huge "mushroom rock" by a local forest service ranger. This great historical account of the early days at the Tower by Philip Simon is a must-read.
Thompson Canyon Details

Getting There

If you can't find the Tower, you're in big trouble! Trails come up from the parking area below and also from the areas across to the left. Approach time about two minutes.

22 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Enchanted Tower Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Enchanted Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grendel
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Once Upon a Time
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Stairs
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Technowitch
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flotsam & Jetsam
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rumplestiltskin
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jabberwocky
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Full Rubber Mission
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tinkerbell's Nightmare
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Straight On Til Morning
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Zee Wicked Witch
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shipwrecked
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
The Hunting of the Snark
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ripped Van Winkle
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Goliath
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Grendel N (Left) Face 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Once Upon a Time N (Left) Face 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Golden Stairs South/Southeast (Right) Face 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Technowitch N (Left) Face 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flotsam & Jetsam South/Southeast (Right) Face 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rumplestiltskin N (Left) Face 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Jabberwocky N (Left) Face 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Full Rubber Mission N (Left) Face 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Tinkerbell's Nightmare N (Left) Face 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Straight On Til Morning N (Left) Face 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Zee Wicked Witch W (Center) Face 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Shipwrecked South/Southeast (Right) Face 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Hunting of the Snark W (Center) Face 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ripped Van Winkle W (Center) Face 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Goliath South/Southeast (Right) Face 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Enchanted Tower »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
grog m wrote:What's up with NM folks arguing about letter grades? 11b or 11c? 12c or 12d? haha it's a little sprayish...
Hate to break it to you but that's just climbers in general, not just NM. :) Nov 17, 2015
What's up with NM folks arguing about letter grades? 11b or 11c? 12c or 12d? haha it's a little sprayish... Nov 17, 2015
The overhanging arete on the Enchanted Tower has to be one of the most striking lines in the southwest. A number of routes start on the lower section of the arete and branch off. Goliath 5.13 takes it 110 ft. to the top. If you haven't been there plan a trip now. Feb 28, 2006

More About The Enchanted Tower

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within The Enchanted Tower (122)

Most Popular · Newest