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Areas in The Enchanted Tower

North (Left) Face 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
South/Southeast (Right) Face 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
West (Center) Face 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

What can you say about this? Many areas have striking formations that are just begging to be climbed. They don't beg any harder than this one! The inverted wedge of Enchanted Tower features lots of hard routes on usually overhanging rock. One the easiest and most obvious (and therefore most popular) routes on the Tower proper is Golden Stairs at 5.11c (originally rated 5.12a). This is likely the only route you'll encounter a line on. From there, the difficulty goes all the way into the 5.13's, including the amazing and picturesque Goliath (5.13a). Bring the big guns!

The Tower is commonly broken up into three distinct faces. The typically shaded North (Left) Face, the typically sunny West (Center) Faceand the South/Southeast (Right) Face.

Climbing began at the Tower in the early 80s when students at the nearby New Mexico Tech college in Socorro were tipped off about a huge "mushroom rock" by a local forest service ranger. This great historical account of the early days at the Tower by Philip Simon is a must-read.

Getting There

If you can't find the Tower, you're in big trouble! Trails come up from the parking area below and also from the areas across to the left. Approach time about two minutes.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Enchanted Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 126
Grendel
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 74
Once Upon a Time
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 102
Golden Stairs
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 79
Technowitch
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 69
Flotsam & Jetsam
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 77
Rumplestiltskin
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 39
Tinkerbell's Nightmare
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 51
Jabberwocky
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 22
Full Rubber Mission
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 29
Straight On Til Morning
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 26
Zee Wicked Witch
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 42
Shipwrecked
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
The Hunting of the Snark
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 12
Ripped Van Winkle
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 33
Goliath
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Grendel N (Left) Face
 126
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Once Upon a Time N (Left) Face
 74
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Golden Stairs South/Southeast (Righ…
 102
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Technowitch N (Left) Face
 79
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flotsam & Jetsam South/Southeast (Righ…
 69
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rumplestiltskin N (Left) Face
 77
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tinkerbell's Nightmare N (Left) Face
 39
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Jabberwocky N (Left) Face
 51
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Full Rubber Mission N (Left) Face
 22
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Straight On Til Morning N (Left) Face
 29
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Zee Wicked Witch W (Center) Face
 26
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Shipwrecked South/Southeast (Righ…
 42
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Hunting of the Snark W (Center) Face
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ripped Van Winkle W (Center) Face
 12
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Goliath South/Southeast (Righ…
 33
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Enchanted Tower »

Weather Averages

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The overhanging arete on the Enchanted Tower has to be one of the most striking lines in the southwest. A number of routes start on the lower section of the arete and branch off. Goliath 5.13 takes it 110 ft. to the top. If you haven't been there plan a trip now. Feb 28, 2006
What's up with NM folks arguing about letter grades? 11b or 11c? 12c or 12d? haha it's a little sprayish... Nov 17, 2015
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
grog m wrote:What's up with NM folks arguing about letter grades? 11b or 11c? 12c or 12d? haha it's a little sprayish...
Hate to break it to you but that's just climbers in general, not just NM. :) Nov 17, 2015
Parke  
What's it like in the winter? Too snowy/chilly? Dec 28, 2017

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