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Routes in North (Left) Face

Full Rubber Mission S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Glenda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grendel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Once Upon a Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumplestiltskin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight On Til Morning S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Technowitch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tinkerbell's Nightmare S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Witch S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: 1st half Adam Read, 2nd Half Chris Grijalva
Page Views: 1,438 total, 11/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Sep 11, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Clip the first bolt of Jabberwocky and bust right and upwards past 2 more bolts through some sequency moves, then pass 3 more bolts to the mid anchors and a great rest. Rest up (for longer then you think you need to) and continue past 6 more bolts on 2 finger pockets that get you pumped for the final steep finish. While there is a sequence that will make this feel easy, figuring it out while pumped is difficult. While most of the tower 12b's might be easy for the grade this one is solid. To the first anchors is Rubber mission 6 bolts also 12b.

Location

Shares start and first bolt with Jabberwocky. Between Jabberwocky and Mad Hatter

Protection

12 bolts + anchors. A 60m works with about 5 feet to spare. Tie a knot in the end.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.12b
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.12b
Fun route! The rest at the first anchors detracts a bit, but the route would be much, much harder without it! Definitely not over until you clip the (second set of) chains!

To help mitigate rope drag on the tough finish, it's helpful to back-clean as much as possible or use long draws/slings on the lower part. Jun 24, 2012