Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Duran
Page Views: 3,692 total · 24/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Mar 23, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


84 Opinions

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

A super enduro-fest with a high crux. There's two ways to go about it- the short person version and the long person version. Taller people head right to the hold on Straight On Til Morning and shorter people generally go straight up.

Location

This is the first route on the north side of the tower, starting from the left. Shares a start with other routes on the wall.

Protection

Lots o' bolts to sport anchor.
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
This is not really a "super enduro" pitch. Rumplestiltskin 12a (70-80 feet long) which is a three bolt lines right doesn't have as powerful a crux but it is an endurance problem. Techno (50 feet long) only has 20-25 feet of pumpy climbing. The start can be done by starting on the second line of bolts but most people start this route on the first line of bolts on the left side of the wall. It is still a good route and worth doing. Mar 24, 2006
WSnyder
 
WSnyder  
 
FYI the FA was done by John Duran Mar 27, 2006
Amy Jordan  
 
I love this route because of the big dynamic move at the top (well, I'm short...maybe not everyone does a big dynamic move there). Four stars from me. Mar 17, 2007
Dave Wachter  
 
I agree - the dynamic crux near the top is one of the best sequences on the tower, and the last bit to the anchors is nearly as cool. However, the first 2/3 of the climb is maybe 5.11, with a huge ledge in the middle to have a snooze on. A fun intro to the tower, with good clean falls. 3 stars. Feb 26, 2008
lance hadfield
tijeras
 
lance hadfield   tijeras
 
it is the second route on the right and a favorite 1st 5.12a for many people. Aug 15, 2008
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
 
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
 
I liked this the best out of all the lines I got on while at The Tower. Golden Stairs was a close second. It cruises up to a crux section which involves a large throw or thin crimps depending on your style. Really fun safe whippers high off the ground! I thought this route was actually easier than Once Upon a Time which called for much more endurance. Sep 5, 2013
Heathennation
Choss Valley, Arizona
  5.12a PG13
Heathennation   Choss Valley, Arizona
  5.12a PG13
Awesome climb, shaded for a good bit of the day. Just manage to stick the right hand jug up high and you'll be at the chains in no time. Sep 8, 2015