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Routes in North (Left) Face

Full Rubber Mission S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Glenda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grendel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Once Upon a Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumplestiltskin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight On Til Morning S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Technowitch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tinkerbell's Nightmare S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Witch S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Lee Sheftel, 1990
Page Views: 1,197 total · 10/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Sep 21, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details


Shared start with Grendal, and head straight up after the fourth bolt. Things remain easy until around the seventh bolt, where the angle steepens, and the holds shrink a bit. Perservere and continue to the top, heading right slightly to clip the chains. This line feels more natural than the two adjacent lines "Grendel" and "Straight on 'Til Morning".

Might be a little soft for the Guidebook grade of 12b.


Shares Start with Grendel, and heads straight up after the fourth bolt. Second route from the far left side of the tower, between "Technowitch" and "Once upon a Time".


10 Bolts to Anchors


- No Photos -
FA: Matt Samet, Lee Sheftel. Lee loaned me his drill, some half-inch bolts, and helped consult on how to stay into the wall and drill, as I'd not yet learned that yet! Hint: it involved a hook.

FA: 1990 Jun 22, 2010

More About Tinkerbell's Nightmare