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Routes in North (Left) Face

Full Rubber Mission S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Glenda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grendel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Once Upon a Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumplestiltskin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight On Til Morning S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Technowitch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tinkerbell's Nightmare S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
White Witch S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Adam Read, Beth Gillia
Page Views: 7,109 total · 48/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


126 Opinions

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Easy start to an unexpected hard move where the holds aren't as good as they look, to a great rest. At this point follow the right line of bolts up the steep face on mostly good holds. Watch out as there are a few heavily chalked sucker holds that lead to dead ends. Rest at the ledge up top, then finish to the anchors. Can also be done using the start for Once Upon A Time and traversing left, this makes it a bit harder, probably hard 11b, easy 11c.

Location

Between Tinkerbell's Nightmare and Once Upon A Time

Protection

10 bolts + Anchors
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
4 star route if it were any where else in NM but the tower. It is definitly easier to skip the second to last bolt then to lean way left to clip it. Just make two extra moves on jugs and your standing on the ledge. Even if you fell it would be better than taking a clipping fall here which is quite possible if your pumped. Apr 2, 2007
Allison Fritz
Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
Allison Fritz   Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
DisturbingThePeace, thanks for the comment. I agree with your beta, I moved up to the nice holds as you suggested and clipped down which was not that bad. Oct 21, 2007
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
I agree on the moving past the bolt to the ledge. I was pumped and in an attempt to put the draw on I bashed my hand on the rock and dropped the draw. I had a new draw on and clipped by the time everyone below was done watching my draw bounce.... New racking 'biners!!!!! May 2, 2008
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
 
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
 
The warm up on this side of the Tower. May 7, 2012

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