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Routes in South/Southeast (Right) Face

B.F.G., The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Cast Away S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flotsam & Jetsam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Stairs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goliath S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hippogriff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Medusa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shipwrecked S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Bertrand Gramont & Phil Simon 10/87
Page Views: 6,402 total · 44/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 5, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details


A classic line. Begin just right of the Goliath arete (both routes share the same start), and climb to the top of a large pillar. Once gaining the top of the pillar continue up and pull a balancy move for the technical crux. Trend right on large holds, then up and through the bulge. This bulge is the crux for most, as the pump clock is ticking. After pulling this bulge, the rest is only 5.8 climbing but can be a little spooky, especially if your super pumped! It is fairly run out from there to the anchors.

One can continue to the top from the midpoint anchors, but if done it will be helpful to have a 70m rope. Run out but easy climbing up there.


10 bolts to the first set of anchors. If you continue to the top there are three more bolts. A 70m rope is mandatory for lowering from the top to the ground. If using a 60m rope, lower from the top to the mid-point anchors, anchor in, pull the rope down from the top, thread into mid-anchor and lower from there.


Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
There are now 3 bolts between the mid anchors and the top. While not the best rock or the most memorable moves it is certainly worth doing once. Apr 2, 2007
Bones Perkins
Rexburg, ID
Bones Perkins   Rexburg, ID
I thought this was an extremely beautiful route. Enjoyable movement, nice holds, and overall length made it quite memorable. Even though the climbing past the midway anchors may not be anything special, the view from the top is. And if it was runout at all in the past, it certainly isn't anymore. It's a safe cruise to the top anchors. Mar 23, 2011
Michael Beyer doing Golden Stairs.

youtube.com/watch?v=rVi_ika… Nov 9, 2011
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
This route is SUPER classic. Possibly the best 5.11 route that I have done. Absolutely phenomenal! Steep, pumpy, engaging.... Get on this beast! Rest up at the 4th bolt, and try to sprint to the chains! Jun 3, 2013
Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
Wei-Ming Lam   Phoenix, AZ
70 m rope mandatory for lowering from top set of anchors. Tie a knot in the end of your rope even if you have a 70! Do not recommend topping out with a 60m. Sep 6, 2016
Nick Fuentes
Nick Fuentes  
Had the pleasure of working on this beautiful line last week while visiting, Spent 5 days working out the beta, and on the last day of my trip was able to get the red point. Definitely one of my favorite routes of all time and certainly worth the ride. Great project route for any 5.11 climber / Safe falls, great holds, just fight the pump, and enjoy the view. There is a fairly large honey bee nest just at the start of the route by bolt #1; the beta doesnt really interfere with them & they are definitely not aggressive. Good times on a super fun ultra classic route. Aug 16, 2017

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