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Golden Stairs
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 141
votes
Routes in South/Southeast (Right) Face
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B.F.G., The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cast Away S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Chips Ahoy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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David S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Flotsam & Jetsam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Golden Stairs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Goliath S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hippogriff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Medusa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shipwrecked S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Bertrand Gramont & Phil Simon 10/87 |
| Page Views: | 9,144 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Anthony Stout on May 5, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon
Details
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
A classic line. Begin just right of the Goliath arete (both routes share the same start), and climb to the top of a large pillar. Once gaining the top of the pillar continue up and pull a balancy move for the technical crux. Trend right on large holds, then up and through the bulge. This bulge is the crux for most, as the pump clock is ticking. After pulling this bulge, the rest is only 5.8 climbing but can be a little spooky, especially if your super pumped! It is fairly run out from there to the anchors.
One can continue to the top from the midpoint anchors, but if done it will be helpful to have a 70m rope. Run out but easy climbing up there.
One can continue to the top from the midpoint anchors, but if done it will be helpful to have a 70m rope. Run out but easy climbing up there.
Protection
10 bolts to the first set of anchors. If you continue to the top there are three more bolts. A 70m rope is mandatory for lowering from the top to the ground. If using a 60m rope, lower from the top to the mid-point anchors, anchor in, pull the rope down from the top, thread into mid-anchor and lower from there.
***See Comment Below:***
As of May 16, 2018 there is not a nut holding the hanger on at the 3rd bolt. Watched a gust of wind blow the hanger off with a quickdraw attached to it while my buddy was up the 8th bolt. We couldn’t find the nut, but we left the hanger at the base of the climb. For some, this may change the climb with a slabby crux being protected here with potential for decking. All it needs is a nut, a little locktite, a wrench, and some elbow grease to be repaired, but alas we only had elbow grease with us.
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***See Comment Below:***
As of May 16, 2018 there is not a nut holding the hanger on at the 3rd bolt. Watched a gust of wind blow the hanger off with a quickdraw attached to it while my buddy was up the 8th bolt. We couldn’t find the nut, but we left the hanger at the base of the climb. For some, this may change the climb with a slabby crux being protected here with potential for decking. All it needs is a nut, a little locktite, a wrench, and some elbow grease to be repaired, but alas we only had elbow grease with us.
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7 Comments