Type: Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Bertrand Gramont & Phil Simon 10/87
Page Views: 7,805 total · 45/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 5, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

A classic line. Begin just right of the Goliath arete (both routes share the same start), and climb to the top of a large pillar. Once gaining the top of the pillar continue up and pull a balancy move for the technical crux. Trend right on large holds, then up and through the bulge. This bulge is the crux for most, as the pump clock is ticking. After pulling this bulge, the rest is only 5.8 climbing but can be a little spooky, especially if your super pumped! It is fairly run out from there to the anchors.

One can continue to the top from the midpoint anchors, but if done it will be helpful to have a 70m rope. Run out but easy climbing up there.

Protection

10 bolts to the first set of anchors. If you continue to the top there are three more bolts. A 70m rope is mandatory for lowering from the top to the ground. If using a 60m rope, lower from the top to the mid-point anchors, anchor in, pull the rope down from the top, thread into mid-anchor and lower from there.

***See Comment Below:***
As of May 16, 2018 there is not a nut holding the hanger on at the 3rd bolt. Watched a gust of wind blow the hanger off with a quickdraw attached to it while my buddy was up the 8th bolt. We couldn’t find the nut, but we left the hanger at the base of the climb. For some, this may change the climb with a slabby crux being protected here with potential for decking. All it needs is a nut, a little locktite, a wrench, and some elbow grease to be repaired, but alas we only had elbow grease with us.
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