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Routes in North (Left) Face

Full Rubber Mission S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Glenda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grendel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Once Upon a Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumplestiltskin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight On Til Morning S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Technowitch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tinkerbell's Nightmare S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Witch S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bertrand Gramont, Phil Simon & Jean de Lataillade 10/87, Direct Start: Scott Hubbard
Page Views: 3,960 total, 28/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 5, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Thompson Canyon Details


Fun, sustained, fest of jugs up the tower. Near the middle of the formation. Climb starts below the black streak and continues up through the black streak to the anchors. Technical crux is near the bottom, enduro route the rest of the way up.


Bolts to top anchors.
Logan Peterson
Santa Fe, NM
Logan Peterson   Santa Fe, NM
Heads up: I noticed yesterday that the big rail that serves as a rest hold directly below the business on the black streak has a crack beneath it, and felt a bit loose. I wasn't equipped to knock it off--and didn't want to seriously alter this classic, but locals should consider it. Lead belayers should be well out of the fall line of this cantaloupe-sized rock, but gawkers and walkers could be in danger. Sep 26, 2016
Replaced missing belay hanger (after EFR stole it! Ha Ha!). Thanks again to JB for donating more hardware. Jul 11, 2010
Harder than Golden Stairs but easier than Hippogriff. The chalk washes off this route quickly after any rain, so an onsight attempt can feel a bit wilder than some of the other routes on the tower. May 21, 2010
Dave Wachter  
Sustained (no snooze ledge, unless you traverse off route), varied climbing on steep rock with good holds. Bottom section provides an interesting contrast to typical Datil climbing, and there's a bit of a runout on big pockets at the end. If you happened to come off, you'd have a whole lot of fun. What more could you want from a tower moderate? Sep 26, 2009