Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Lance Hadfield 2007
Page Views: 1,713 total · 12/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Start just left of Jabberwocky on the same platform. Make a few easy moves to set up for the first crux. Manage through this and head up on easy but pumpy moves. At times it is unavoidable (at the grade) to avoid using a couple holds on Rumplestiltskin, without moving off the intended bolt line. Continue up managing the pump to another crux. Pull this and head up to a no-hands rest in a small alcove. Rest up. From the alcove, climb up the shallow corner for a couple moves, clip another bolt, then work your way out left and continue up the green/brown streak past one more bolt to the anchors.

Contains a few hard moves for a tower route, but there are plenty of jugs to rest on.

For the first ten years of this route's existence, it didn't have its own finish or anchors. Instead, climbers simply merged left into Rumplestiltskin's final two bolts and anchor. In September 2017, the route finally got its own independent finish and anchor making this route a fine first 12a on the Tower.

Location

Between Rumplestiltskin and Jabberwocky. Starts just left of Jabberwocky in the same small cave/platform.

Protection

12 bolts to its own, independent anchor

Photos