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Routes in North (Left) Face

Full Rubber Mission S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Glenda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grendel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Once Upon a Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumplestiltskin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight On Til Morning S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Technowitch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tinkerbell's Nightmare S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Witch S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Lance Hadfield 2007
Page Views: 1,137 total, 9/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Start up the first two bolts of Technowitch and break left at the third bolt. Beware there is some large loose stuff sitting on the ledge. Climb off the large through closely spaced bolts (very nice as a big fall would be scary here) on more solid then it looks rock. Negotiate the steep overhanging arete on good holds and set yourself up for the crux headwall finish.

Location

Leftmost route on the tower, shares first two bolts with technowitch and breaks left.

Protection

9 Bolts to Chains with lower off biners

Photos

Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.12b PG13
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.12b PG13
Great Route. Sent this last weekend. ***note to climbers***

When climbing into and through the last bolt, the arete that you use to finish the climb is a little loose. A friend of mine was TR'ing it. He used a heel hook on the arete and pulled off a larger toaster sized block and missed the belayer by inches. Mostly the entire route is solid and good, but that top arete is somewhat chossey. Be careful. And enjoy another classic Tower climb!!!! Apr 11, 2011
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12b
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.12b
A really fun route - it seems to be cleaning up nicely. It's a worthy addition to the tower. I felt it to be a bit more difficult than both Tehnowitch and Rumplestilskin. And although it has been a while since I have done Full Rubber Mission (it's always difficult to compare these things), I felt the crux move after going through the no rest lower moves was at least as difficult as anything on Full Rubber Mission. After passing through the bulge to the arete, there are really no opportunities to shake out. Sep 14, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
The grade is my guess; I thought this was harder than Technowitch but easier than Full Rubber Mission. The rock quality while not great is more solid than it looks. The upper headwall rock is comparable to the flakey rock found on Medusa. Be sure to put your feet in the pockets as the little flakes will more than likely break off. This is probably a symptom of all tower routes that are new or don't get climbed alot. Nov 19, 2007