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Routes in North (Left) Face

Full Rubber Mission S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Glenda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grendel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Once Upon a Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumplestiltskin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight On Til Morning S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Technowitch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tinkerbell's Nightmare S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Witch S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bertrand Gramont & Don Goodhew 5/88, Direct Start: Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 4,990 total, 36/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 26, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Another classic tower endurance climb. Starts in a small dihedral through entertaining and easier than thy look moves. Continue up with big pulls between big pockets to a large rest. Figure out how to snag a rest here (I've heard of people sitting on the ledge), or if the pump clock is ticking start the sprint up the final headwall. Continue on steep rock for the next three bolts then enjoy the easier ground to the anchors.

Location

Look for the small dihedral just right of "Once Upon a Time". Last climb on the starting ledge for "Once Upon a Time" and "Grendel". Between "Once Upon A Time" & "White Witch".

Protection

9 Bolts + Anchors, Stickclip so you don't fall of the ledge.
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
Re-bolted the route, removing the scary original 1988 SMC hangers and 5/16" hardware with burly 1/2" Rawl anchors and Fixe hangers. Enjoy! Sep 26, 2016
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.12a
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.12a
Tried to rest by sitting on the midway ledge like my partner and wound up wasting more energy than it was worth. Super fun route! Apr 7, 2016
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
As of Sept 2011, the missing bolt has been replaced. Sep 12, 2011
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
 
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
 
The hanger is still missing as of the last day of April, 2011. Who would remove it/have it fall off/break and not fix it? May 1, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
The third bolt is still missing on Rumple, but you can clip a bolt on the next route to the right at about the same height. Of course doing so is not ideal, but if you fall moving through the next section to the 4th bolt you at least won't deck.
Best. Apr 27, 2011