The Land Beyond Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 8,324 ft |
GPS: |
34.25346, -107.91038 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 21,485 total · 102/month |
Shared By: | Anthony Stout on Sep 12, 2006 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
This area is composed of one large boulder about 1.8 miles beyond the tower (off the same road). The routes are of the same stone as the tower and thus, feature similar climbing. If your looking to pack a lot of routes into a short period of time, this is a great location. Although shorter than the tower, there is a quality selection of routes here. All the routes are right next to each-other and you don't have to travel far to get on another route. Grades range from 5.10a to 5.12 b/c, with the majority being in the mid 11 to low 12 range. Summer shade in the afternoon on the east side of the formation.
There are three different sides to the formation. The sides and routes are listed from left to right (west to east) as you see them from the road/trail.
(I) West Face (AKA Grid Wall)--9 routes
Hike up the trail and head left when you get to the boulder. This beautiful wall of overhung and pocketed rock is known as the grid wall for a reason. It's not difficult to get off route or create link ups on this one, whether on purpose or accident. Get an idea of where you are going before you start up these routes. Routes are listed from left to right.
Beagle (5.11a)
Smeagol (5.11c)
Gandolf (5.11d/12a)
Servant of the Secret Fire (5.12a)
Something Lethal (5.12b)
Incredible Journey (5.12b/c)
Mr. Baggins (5.12a)
Lucky Number (5.12a)
Hoggle (5.10a)
(II) South Face--3 routes
The wall right in front of you as you approach the boulder.
American Psycho (5.12d)
Unknown project (5.13?)
Yo La Tango (5.11c/d)
(III) East Face--7 routes
The right side of the boulder looking from the trail/road.
Alice Does Wonderland (5.12a)
Lord of the Ring (5.11d)
Where the Thrush Knocks (5.11d)
Soft Start (5.10d)
Smaug (5.10c)
Frodo (5.11c)
Black Arrow (5.11a)
There are three different sides to the formation. The sides and routes are listed from left to right (west to east) as you see them from the road/trail.
(I) West Face (AKA Grid Wall)--9 routes
Hike up the trail and head left when you get to the boulder. This beautiful wall of overhung and pocketed rock is known as the grid wall for a reason. It's not difficult to get off route or create link ups on this one, whether on purpose or accident. Get an idea of where you are going before you start up these routes. Routes are listed from left to right.
Beagle (5.11a)
Smeagol (5.11c)
Gandolf (5.11d/12a)
Servant of the Secret Fire (5.12a)
Something Lethal (5.12b)
Incredible Journey (5.12b/c)
Mr. Baggins (5.12a)
Lucky Number (5.12a)
Hoggle (5.10a)
(II) South Face--3 routes
The wall right in front of you as you approach the boulder.
American Psycho (5.12d)
Unknown project (5.13?)
Yo La Tango (5.11c/d)
(III) East Face--7 routes
The right side of the boulder looking from the trail/road.
Alice Does Wonderland (5.12a)
Lord of the Ring (5.11d)
Where the Thrush Knocks (5.11d)
Soft Start (5.10d)
Smaug (5.10c)
Frodo (5.11c)
Black Arrow (5.11a)
Classic Climbing Routes at The Land Beyond
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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