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Routes in Pogue's Cave Area

Blessed and Blissed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buzz Lightyear S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funk Shui S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Houkah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jeremy Fisher S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Labour of Love S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Merlins Mantra S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Never Never Land S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Now and Zen S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ooey Gooey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
POGy WOG S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Party Pogues S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pogue's Arete S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prima Donna S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tale of Jemima Puddleduck, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tweedle Dee S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tweedle Dum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Jeff Jackson, Todd ______ (from Dallas)
Page Views: 3,615 total, 26/month
Shared By: Jason Hundhausen on Apr 27, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Beginning upside-down inside the cave, Pogue's Arete climbs the ceiling for four bolts before turning the roof and continuing up on easier ground for another 15 feet. Monstro jugs make this bucket-haul more of a test of forearm endurance than power. Pulling the roof seems to be the crux, but being that you're out over the opening of the cave, the falls are super clean, so just go for it!

Location

Climbs left to right across the underside of the cave then heads up the face for ~15 feet.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt chained anchor with lowering hardware.
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
 
If you are into steep juggy stuff like me this one is a gem. Too bad it doesn't continue but hey it's great and unique. Spend a few moments looking at the moves pulling the lip of the roof. A good sequence can be spotted and will save you the trouble of worrying when you get there. If you make it to the roof, don't give up!!! Just a few more hard pulls and you're there! Mar 19, 2010
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.11b/c
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.11b/c
I really want to love this route because of the incredible moves and position... but the some of the holds through the roof are brutally sharp! Next time I do this, I'm taping up my hands ...and my heels. Jun 7, 2009
Allison Fritz
Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
Allison Fritz   Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
Steep start but the holds are good. The crux for me was clipping the fourth and moving past the edge of the cave. Oct 21, 2007