Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: William Penner
Page Views: 560 total · 10/month
Shared By: William Penner on May 2, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Steep jugs, crimps and slopers lead to an okay rest followed by a challenging and dynamic exit sequence with some awful holds. Shorter but just amazing.


Center of Los Huevos


6 QDs


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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
A really useful hold broke at the crux, might be harder now. Apr 5, 2015
It was the hold used to get into the crux, left hand pinch/crimp just below last bolt. It will be harder and more punishing on your hands. Apr 6, 2015
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
The left hand sloper pinch/side pull broke that you use to dyno off for the crux? That hold barely existed to begin with! If it is a lower hold then it shouldn't have changed the difficulty too much.

W Apr 6, 2015
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Warning: Onsight Spoiler

When did it break? I tried this on Saturday, and it didn't seem like there was anything to break off the left hand pinch / sidepull. My beta from the left hand jug was, rt gaston crimp, left three finger small crimp, rt intermediate bad crimp, rt sidepull pinch, left sidepull / pinch, dyno right hand for the jug. Apr 6, 2015
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
Holy crap Mike, now nobody can try to on sight this after that beta bomb ;) I do pretty much the same sequence, but minus one of the intermediates you described. A drop knee with the right foot on that mini dihedral allowed me to sort of keep the feet on and do more of desperate deadpoint than an all points off dyno.

Yeah, that is why I was surprised by the earlier comment...there is nothing left to break on that left hand. Maybe they broke one of the lower crimps or something. Super cool dyno crux though! Apr 6, 2015
That is the beta I was using too on sunday (but no dyno, just go left to top off right side pull). Now the left three finger small crimp is smaller. Apr 6, 2015
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
Whatever the beta or condition of the hold leading into the crux, I am glad to see some folks getting on the route. It packs a punch for being so short, although it would be even more brutal if that jug rest wasn't there before the crux. Apr 7, 2015