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Routes in Piedra River - Lower West

Become the Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Beauty S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Spell T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cattle Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deuce S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Different Strokes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Emotionally Involved S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
F***in' Greenies S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Body Brace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giggin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Seam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Graffiti Wall V5 6C
Hollow Excuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hopstacle Course S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huggy Bear V5+ 6C+
I & Eye S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jammers Kant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Crashes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Main Traverse V1+ 5
Main Traverse 2.0 V7 7A+
Mild Hops S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moman V4 6B
Nescafe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nick & Todd TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
November Reign S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice Wall S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Raising Awareness S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rave Mode S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refuse To Suffer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ruled By Force S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smokin' Stems T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solo Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southern Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Taster's Choice S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thunder Will S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trigger TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 2 T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Up Above It V4-5 6B+
Van Gogh's S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Hops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winning Streak S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 7,689 ft
GPS: 37.42, -107.197 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 28,962 total, 256/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Aug 28, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is an idyllic, creekside setting with AM sun during the summer. It is a small area with a few trad routes, a number of bolted routes, TRs and boulder problems. Know what poison ivy looks like, and beware during the summer- it's all around the trail.

NOTEs:

Please do not belay from the trail. This is a multi-use area and horses are a common sight. Please be respectful of others.

New route development should be avoided close to the trail for this reason. There have also been concerns in the past from rangers regarding routes near the trail, so please do your part to keep the concerns a thing of the past.

Getting There

From the parking lot across the Piedra River, take the Ice Caves Trail down stream taking a left at the fork. As you drop to the river, you will see the first route on your right. There are routes along the cliff and boulder problems and top ropes down by the river.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Piedra River - Lower West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5+ 6C+
Huggy Bear
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nescafe
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Emotionally Involved
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lightning Crashes
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Taster's Choice
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Wall
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
F***in' Greenies
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mild Hops
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hopstacle Course
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Van Gogh's
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Magic Spell
Trad, Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smokin' Stems
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Refuse To Suffer
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Southern Cross
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wild Hops
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Huggy Bear V5+ 6C+ Boulder
Nescafe 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Emotionally Involved 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Lightning Crashes 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Taster's Choice 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
First Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
F***in' Greenies 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mild Hops 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hopstacle Course 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Van Gogh's 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Black Magic Spell 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Smokin' Stems 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Refuse To Suffer 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Southern Cross 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wild Hops 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Piedra River - Lower West »

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Photos

Shane Martin Smith
Pagosa Springs, CO
Shane Martin Smith   Pagosa Springs, CO
On August 17th, 2016, a buddy of mine left his watch at either Practice Wall or Hops Wall. If anyone finds it, please PM me. I know he would appreciate having it back. Thanks everyone. Be safe. Aug 19, 2016
s.price
PS,CO
s.price   PS,CO
Found two quickdraws on practice Wall. I grabbed them so the booty thieves could not. identify and I will get them to you. haybooner@aol.com Jul 21, 2015
Is there any place to get a guide or beta/map for these sites? I am looking to top rope...and feel confident scrambling up to an anchor or building a natural anchor too...thanks! Jun 22, 2015
b hof
Pueblo West, CO
b hof   Pueblo West, CO
This area has some stout 5.9s and 10s. Jul 11, 2014
Beautiful area!

To clarify some directions, from downtown Pagosa:
- Take US Hwy 160 West
- Turn right on Piedra Road, a.k.a. County Rd. 600. This becomes unpaved after a few miles. (Don't need 4WD.) The name changes to County Road 631.
- Go about 14.5 miles until you cross the Piedra River, and park next to the bridge on the right.
- The trailhead is on the other side of the street. Sep 4, 2012
s.price
PS,CO
s.price   PS,CO
Routes are listed from entering the canyon, starting with First Wall. Sorting was done right to left as they are found. Where needed credit is given to those who had the original vision for the route along with first ascentionist. Jul 21, 2011
Is there more bouldering besides the few problems described here? Anything harder or decent looking projects that would make it worth a drive from Durango??!! Jul 4, 2011
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
Thanks for the hard work on the route development! We spent a couple afternoons climbing here and truly enjoyed it. Really fun climbing in a beautiful setting. My favorites were "Wild Hops" and "Smokin' Stems", but I liked pretty much everything I got on. Jun 29, 2011
Jaaron Mankins
Durango, CO
Jaaron Mankins   Durango, CO
Definitely DO NOT belay on the trail!! Horses cruise through here often, and they are not going to stop if you are in the way. Cool spot!! Sep 9, 2008

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