Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alex Scott & Rich Strang
Page Views: 2,708 total · 29/month
Shared By: Pullhard on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

This is a mixed gear route. Begin the climb at "Smokin' Stems." Clip a piton and place gear to protect the steep start, then follow the bolts up and right. It is good climbing on a beautiful, black face.

Location

See the photo to the right and beta photo for "Smokin' Stems."

Protection

Piton, a couple cams, and perhaps a nut protect the start before the first bolt. 7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Probably best to clean the route on top rope, then rap from chains.
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11
I definitely needed some MAGIC to unlock the the crux. Pretty varied movements and suprisingly continuous. Jul 5, 2011
s.price
Pagosa Springs
  5.11
s.price   Pagosa Springs
  5.11
Fun moves to a great finish. I'd go 4 stars, but IMO the shared start doesn't allow for 4 stars.

2013 edit: This route is 4 stars regardless of the shared start. One of the best in the canyon. IMO has changed. Jul 27, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11b
We only climbed five routes at PR on our recent visit, and this one was by far my favorite. Bouldery, gear protected start to super fun moves on stellar rock to the top. Kudos. Aug 11, 2011
Josef Lovin
Lakewood, CO
 
Josef Lovin   Lakewood, CO
 
It was interesting watching my partner have difficulty working through the crux sequence but then easily working it once he had the beta. If you're the second climber, you might be sure to get the onsight! Lovely, solid crimps and fun movement! Aug 7, 2018