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Routes in Piedra River - Lower West

Black S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Beauty S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Spell T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cattle Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deuce S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Different Strokes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Emotionally Involved S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
F***in' Greenies S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Body Brace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giggin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Seam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Graffiti Wall V5 6C
Hollow Excuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hopstacle Course S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Huggy Bear V5+ 6C+
I & Eye S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jammers Kant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Crashes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Main Traverse V1+ 5
Main Traverse 2.0 V7 7A+
Mild Hops S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moman V4 6B
Nescafe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nick & Todd TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
November Reign S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
OLH T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Practice Wall S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Raising Awareness S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rave Mode S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refuse To Suffer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ruled By Force S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smokin' Stems T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solo Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southern Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Taster's Choice S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thunder Will S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trigger TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 2 T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Up Above It V4-5 6B+
Van Gogh's S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Hops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winning Streak S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alex Scott & Rich Strang
Page Views: 2,550 total · 30/month
Shared By: Pullhard on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is a mixed gear route. Begin the climb at "Smokin' Stems." Clip a piton and place gear to protect the steep start, then follow the bolts up and right. It is good climbing on a beautiful, black face.

Location [Suggest Change]

See the photo to the right and beta photo for "Smokin' Stems."

Protection [Suggest Change]

Piton, a couple cams, and perhaps a nut protect the start before the first bolt. 7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Probably best to clean the route on top rope, then rap from chains.
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11
I definitely needed some MAGIC to unlock the the crux. Pretty varied movements and suprisingly continuous. Jul 5, 2011
s.price
the deck of Rover
  5.11
s.price   the deck of Rover
  5.11
Fun moves to a great finish. I'd go 4 stars, but IMO the shared start doesn't allow for 4 stars.

2013 edit: This route is 4 stars regardless of the shared start. One of the best in the canyon. IMO has changed. Jul 27, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11b
We only climbed five routes at PR on our recent visit, and this one was by far my favorite. Bouldery, gear protected start to super fun moves on stellar rock to the top. Kudos. Aug 11, 2011

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