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Routes in Piedra River - Lower West

Become the Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Beauty S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic Spell T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cattle Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deuce S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Different Strokes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Emotionally Involved S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
F***in' Greenies S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Body Brace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giggin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Seam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Graffiti Wall V5 6C
Hollow Excuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hopstacle Course S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Huggy Bear V5+ 6C+
I & Eye S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jammers Kant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lightning Crashes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Main Traverse V1+ 5
Main Traverse 2.0 V7 7A+
Mild Hops S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moman V4 6B
Nescafe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nick & Todd TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
November Reign S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice Wall S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Raising Awareness S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rave Mode S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Refuse To Suffer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ruled By Force S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smokin' Stems T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solo Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southern Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Taster's Choice S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thunder Will S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trigger TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 2 T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Up Above It V4-5 6B+
Van Gogh's S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Hops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winning Streak S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jason Meyer & Wayne Lappeman
Page Views: 980 total, 13/month
Shared By: s.price on Jul 21, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The crux is at 1/3 height. Black Beauty is thin for the grade at its crux but cruiser for upper 2/3rds.

Location

It is 40 feet left of November Reign on a black ramp.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts to an anchor.

Per A. Bandos: the anchors are placed on top of the wall. The anchors consist of just bolt hangers and no chains or carabiners from which to lower.

Photos

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Chip Loomis
  5.8+ PG13
Chip Loomis  
  5.8+ PG13
No sure about the flow of this climb? If the bolts are followed directly, it is at least a 5.10 move about halfway up. Otherwise, traversing right to the arĂȘte creates a chance for a good pendulum fall. If you make the move, then it is an awkward down and stretched arm clip to get the bolt. Did I miss a move? May 31, 2017
A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
The anchors are unfortunately placed on top of the wall. The anchors consist of just bolt hangers and no chains or carabiners to lower from. We traversed to anchors to the left to lower. Jun 21, 2016
Jesse Morehouse   CO
 
I was setting it up for my kids and had a hold break. First time I've ever whipped on an 8. I left plenty of other suspect holds for others! Don't clean this on rap - the rope pull can be tiring due to anchor placement. Oct 7, 2013
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
Good route, a bit tough for noobs, but at 8+, it should be.... I was fooled, thinking I was on the 5.7 (which is to the left). Much more satisifed even though I struggled with the sequence through the crux. I am pretty sure it has 6 bolts.... Jun 30, 2013