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Routes in Piedra River - Lower West
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Black S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Beauty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Magic Spell T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cattle Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Deuce S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Different Strokes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dirty Dancing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Emotionally Involved S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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F***in' Greenies S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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First Wall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Full Body Brace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Giggin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Golden Seam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Graffiti Wall V5 6C |
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Great Scott S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Groomed Gumby S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hollow Excuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hopstacle Course S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Huggy Bear V5+ 6C+ |
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I & Eye S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Immediate Unreality S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Jammers Kant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lightning Crashes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Main Traverse V1+ 5 |
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Main Traverse 2.0 V7 7A+ |
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Melliodious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Mild Hops S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moman V4 6B |
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Nescafe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nick & Todd TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Noodle Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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November Reign S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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OLH T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Poet Tree S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Practice Wall S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Raising Awareness S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Rave Mode S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Refuse To Suffer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ruled By Force S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Silver S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Smokin' J's T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smokin' Stems T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Solo Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Southern Cross S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Sweet Spot, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Taster's Choice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tetrachromacy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Thunder Will S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trigger TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown 2 T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Up Above It V4-5 6B+ |
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Van Gogh's S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wild Hops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Winning Streak S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Winona Ryder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 37.4197, -107.1968 |
| FA: | Wes O'Rourke |
| Page Views: | 801 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Wes O'Rourke on Jun 16, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This shares the start with Smokin' Stems and busts out right onto a wild traverse! Tip toe across the exposed roof, and then go straight up through some classic Piedra jugs. The crux is 11 b/c in the crack, and the face goes at sustained 10b/c.
Be aware that this route is a lil spicy by nature, and those not comfortable at the grade should take caution. I didn't want to crowd the existing climb Black Magic Spell with bolts, so there is a slight runout on easy terrain getting to the second bolt. The runout looks a lot worse from the ground compared to how it climbs.
It is best cleaned by following. Followers, watch the second bolt swing.
Location
Right before the Hops Wall on your right, you will see the huge roof and the perfect corner crack. Smokin' J's is the route farthest to the right on the headwall above the roof. It starts in the obvious crack with the piton at 8' (Smokin Stems).
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